Need your help framers


  #1  
Old 03-23-04, 10:43 AM
Shadz
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Need your help framers

Me and my gal are finishing our basement and unfortuantely I'm ramrodding the project so I'm on the hook for this one. My first of many questions is...

I'm using 2x4s to frame most areas but the width of the staircase is such that I can only get a 2x2 wall and rock in the space next to it (too narrow for 2x4). The bottom plate for the first floor sticks out about a quarter inch over the poured wall in this area meaning when I attach the top plate to the joists and plumb the bottom plate, the 2x2 wall studs (or firring strips) will not sit flush against the poured wall. My fear is that the 2x2s will be wobbly if attched to only the top plate and bottom plate and not the poured wall. I know 2x4s are only attached to the top and bottom plates but they are much sturdier.

Should I :

a) Trim off the excess from the first floor bottom plate so the top plate sits flush against the poured wall allowing the 2x2 studs to do so also. Then attach studs to poured wall with power nailer or Tapcons.

b) Leave the first floor bottom plate as is. Attach top plate to joists, plumb bottom plate and use Tapcons through shims to attach the 2x2s to the poured walls for added support.

c) Attach 2x2 wall studs to top and bottom plate only and hope no one EVER touches the wall.

d) Other (PLEASE elaborate!)
 
  #2  
Old 03-23-04, 11:33 AM
A
Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: I_dont_know
Posts: 175
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Well here are a couple of ideas

(1) if you tap con anything into the concrete wall you are likely to spawn water leak related problems. I simply would not do that.

(2) You might want to see if the Bldg Dept will allow a 2 x 2 wall.

(3) if they allow the wall you might want to put a row or two of horizontal blocking to help stabilize it. You might also want to use a simspon wall brace. It is a long thing piece of metal that helps brace against lateral movement.
 
  #3  
Old 03-23-04, 02:42 PM
coops28's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 1,752
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Like Ed said, keep the doors and make new wider jams.
 
  #4  
Old 03-23-04, 05:56 PM
S
Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 344
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
How large is this wall? I would consider mounting 3/4" treated plywood to the wall and then apply M/R drywall to the plywood.

I am assuming a potential moisture issue, so use a vapor barrier behind the wall, and use a setting-type of drywall mud.

Treated plywood isn't much more than regular plywood. Figure out convienent mounting points, use "stand-offs" as needed and apply the plywood. In your situation, 3/4 ply wouldn't need many attachment points. You can also attach spacers to the plywood if they would make the job easier.

Please don't tell me you need to run electrical behind the wall; you should mention things like electrical up-front in the intial post.
 
  #5  
Old 03-24-04, 07:23 AM
Shadz
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Thanks for your reply Steve. The wall in question is small and only runs the length of the staircase (no electrical). I had a reply to use 2x4s turned on their sides and think that that should do the trick.
 
  #6  
Old 03-28-04, 05:12 AM
awesomedell's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: USA
Posts: 2,425
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Shadz,

Didn't see the reply about using the 2"x4"s turned sideways, but that's what I would also suggest. If you do decide to tapcon studs to the cement wall I'd paint it with drylock first & then run roofing tar behind the points where the studs will attach to the cement prior to installing them. That should take care of the moisture issue.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: