Basement Wall Framing Advice Sought...

I am dividing my basement into two section by running a new 20' wall across the existing space. One end will be anchored into the existing framing, the other will be free-standing (it ends without abutting on any other structure).
This wall will be drywalled eventually. Would it be okay to use adhesive to attach the wall's base plate to the cement floor rather than use a .22 nail driver to blast nails into the floor?
For the top, instead of a top plate to cap the upper ends of my lateral studs I was thinking of nailing each stud into its corresponding floor joist (2x10) - there is plenty of overlap and both the wall studs and the joists (run perpendicular to my wall) are spaced 16" apart. Does it seem reasonable to nail each stud into the floor joists like this?
My concerns are wall strength/stability and the affects that a small shift in the house might have on the wall. Comments/advice please!

 

Personaly I think it would be easyer to put a top plate in place, but I dont realy see a reason why nailing the 2x4s to the joists would not work. As far as glueing the bottom plate to the concrete, I would not rely on the glue alone to hold the wall in place. I usually apply glue and shoot it to the concrete. Also, use treated lumber for the bottom plate.

 

Other than shooting the sill plate to the concrete, you could use tapcons instead to anchor it to the slab. Like Sam said be sure to use treated lumber for this plate.

 

The top plate also acts as a nailer for your drywall. If you stick build to your joists you might find the drywall a little wavy at the top. I think the tap-cons are a good idea as wall. Just my thought on the subject… Good luck with your wall...

 

Sounds like good advice. I'm trying to avoid building my wall then lifting it into place (the bottoms of the joists are approx. 7' from the floor). If I attached my studs to the base plate and pre-position my top plate to the joists, I would only have to nail through the top plate into the tops of the studs. Perhaps with my limited space to work, I don't know how I can build the wall and successfully raise it under the joists? Suggestions? I like the idea of having a top plate available for the drywall, but at least with my initial proposal I could put each stud into place individually (ensuring they are plumb, etc. as I go) by nailing into the base plate and the joists.
Speaking of the base plate again, I like the idea about using tapcons. But now the questions really begin...what size tapcons do I need to put through the 2x4 base plate and into the floor? How do I go about drilling holes through the plate and the into the floor - I'm assuming two separate operations? Special drill and drill bits? How many holes will I need for my 20' run?
I appreciate the help.

 

I would say about every 2 feet with the tap cons. Buy a small box of 21/2 inch It comes with the bits but I would buy 1 or 2 the same size just a bit longer drill through the wood into the concrete and Walla that’s it. As for your top plate I would go with stick framing. It’s a lot like your first suggestion except you lay your bottom plate run a plumb line to the ceiling at each end. Snap a chalk line then nail or screw you top plate to the floor joists. I would layout the top and bottom plate together before attaching it to the ceiling though. Layout (mark the stud pattern 16 or 24 on center) then simply get your measurements for the length of studs cut to length then put them in place toe nailing each stud in place… You could consider metal framing as well… Hope this helps and good luck with your project

 

Thanks! That seems clear and simple enough. I know exactly how I intend to do the job - what you said makes good sense to me.

 

just in case you do decide to use a top plate...you will have to build your wall AT VERY LEAST 7/8" shorter than your 7 ft. joists (by pythagorean theorum) for leaning purposes...anyway thats the very least...I'd probably build it an inch short and use one by's and shims to nail thru to the joists...just gotta be careful that your joists end up in a space not on a stud (not impossible nailing but a little more difficult)....just MHO...any of the ways desribed above look good...but i like having a top plate for nailing/screwing drywall to (which i believe was also mentioned above)...but again...just my 2 cents...have fun whatever u decide

 

jproffer, are you saying that building the wall using the top plate method should be done in a way that the wall doesn't fit snug againts the floor joists?

I have been told by neighbors to use a double header, and from what I have seen from their work, the headers are snug against the joists.

Let me know. Thanks.

 

sorta....im saying that if you build your wall conventionally...i.e. - top and bottom plate, built on the floor and raised into place, you CAN'T build it to fit tightly against the floor joists, unless of course you have a higher spot in your basement that you can lift in then slide it to its final destination while vertical.

But yes, if you build it to fit, when you lift it up you'll find that when...say the north bottom corner and south top corner (or whatever applies)are both touching, your wall won't be near vertical. You have to build it so that the distance from the north bottom corner to the south top corner is no more than the floor joist height, which would in your case, leave you about an inch short of joists when vertical, but with 1x4's(3/4" actual) and shims you should still be able to make a solid connection at top and bottom.

Just had a thought after typing all that, I don't know if your space/conditions/etc permit this, but if you lift into a joist space parallel to the joist, you could get to vertical then twist it around....in theory, but it could get tight if your joists aren't perfect.

And if you use a double top plate(I assume that's what you mean by header), you can frame with just one of the two, left to vertical then slide the second plate on, but then you'll have to toenail to the joists, and again sliding it across could get hairy if joists aren't perfect, but a sledge hammer, sore arms, hope, prayer, it could work .

Whatever you decide, good luck and post back as needed.

 

Think of it this way... your wall will be 2.5" thick. If you build it on the floor with a top & bottom plate, then as you raise it the edge of the topplate will hit the overhead joists before the wall is perfectly level. I've done this and ended up using a sledge to "force" the wall into plumb. (not advisable)

Here's a suggestion:
1. Pre-nail a top-plate to the overhead joists.
2. Measure from bottom of this top plate to the floor... we'll call this X"
3. On the floor, layout a bottom plate and a 2nd top plate, marking 16oc for your studs.
4. Cut your studs X" minus 3". (1.5 for your bottom plate, and 1.5 for the 2nd top plate)
5. Now frame the wall while it's laying on the ground.
6. Lift this wall a foot away from the pre-nailed top plate, and then slide the wall into place.

Notice that you'll now have a double-top-plate and didn't have the problem of the leading edge of the top plate digging into the ceiling before it's plumb. It'll only take a few hits with a hammer to "convince" the two top plates to slide together.

Just a suggestion.