Advice for building a wall in place

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  #1  
Old 07-28-04, 12:27 PM
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Advice for building a wall in place

I am going to be finishing my basement, and I have decided that building the walls in place is the best thing to do. The floor joists are 8' high. I am looking for advice, recommendations, tips etc.

My biggest concern is the top header and the base being plump, and the ways of making sure this happens. I know using a plumb bob is the way to go, but never done it, so what is the proper way to do it and mark the lines etc?

How do you ensure each base is sufficiently away from the wall to maintain a straight line? What is a good distance from the concrete walls?

What is the proper way of starting the 16' studs when building the wall in sections?

Should I drive all the top headers and bases prior to installing the studs?

Should I install a double header? Should the header be snug against the floor joists?

Anything else anyone can think of that would help, will me much appreciated.

Thanks.
 
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  #2  
Old 07-28-04, 05:27 PM
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Location: Chester, IL
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Making sure walls are plumb.......mark lines on the floor where you want each wall, when you get it raised and on that line, use at least a 4 ft. GOOD level and plumb that way, wherever it falls on the floor joists above....then thats fine.

Not sure what you mean about "sufficiently away from the wall to maintain a straight line", so I won't attempt that one till next post.

If you mean the proper way starting the 16 INCH...on center...studs when framing wall sections, measure from one end 15 1/4", mark, X on the AWAY SIDE FROM WHICH YOU ARE MEASURING...31 1/4", mark, X away, 47 1/4...and so on....3/4" short of each 16" increment. This way the center of each stud will fall on 16" increments (16" centers)....if you don't see it now, do it on a scrap piece and it will become obvious what I mean.

I always frame on the floor and lift, leaving the wall enough short to lift past diagonal (1/8" per foot of height on a 2x4 wall)

Unless you want your walls to support alot of load I don't see any reason for a double top plate, and if you frame as above the top plate will not end up snug to the joists, but your 1x4's and shims will.

I know I kinda rushed through this and I aplogize for this, if I wasn't clear I'll be glad to try again. Post back any further questions etc.
 
  #3  
Old 08-03-04, 10:02 PM
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<<<How do you ensure each base is sufficiently away from the wall to maintain a straight line?>

I'm assuming your referring to the basement walls....Strike a mark 2" away, on each end of the wall you're checking, then use a chalk line to snap a line between these marks.
Repeat for the rest you wish to build too.

<What is a good distance from the concrete walls?>

If the 2" line is a clear 1.5" away from the wall, than you can use this, or adjust accordingly.1.5" will allow room enough space for electrical and 2.5" insulation, using 2x2" framing members.

<The floor joists are 8' high.>

When boring horizontal solid wood members, bore ONLY in the middle 1/3rd and preferably over walls. However, if you will be creating a hallway with lowered ceiling for the placement of heating ducting, you can omit that.

I am looking for advice, recommendations, tips etc.

<being plump>

When you have established the perimeter wall location(s), use these as a base for laying out all of the interior walls, snap these lines, which can be "fixed", using clear spray lacquer. Plumb these up, using at least a four foot level, to the floor joists at the wall ends, than snap these out on the floor joists.

<Should I drive all the top headers and bases prior to installing the studs?>

For a novice, yes. A 32" doorway requires a 33.5x82" opening.

To lay out your studs, starting at a wall end, measure in 15.25", from that line continue to mark 16,32,48,64, etc.

<Should I install a double header?>

Not necessarily.

< Should the header be snug against the floor joists?>>>

Preferably.
 
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