Supporting a Lam Beams?

Reply

  #1  
Old 08-03-04, 04:31 PM
bmurr
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Supporting Lam Beams?

I am removing a 10 foot load bearing section of wall between my kitchen and living room. I just picked up two 2x12 laminated beams specked by an engineer who came out to look at the structure. He had a few suggestions on how to support the beams but I was hoping to get additional feedback from the experts here. He suggested framing the beams just like you would a header, but with two 2x4s in each end. Is that sufficient? Can I use only one? Should I try to use hangers as well? Any input would be helful.

Cheers

The house is single story.

Thanks
 

Last edited by bmurr; 08-03-04 at 04:42 PM. Reason: additional info
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 08-03-04, 07:27 PM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,150
2x12 laminated beams, interesting. In my 35yrs of being smarter than many houses and commercial buildings, thats a new one.

Be that as it may and assuming that you are going to install this "system" tight below the double top plates of the wall being removed, it will need to be attached to these framing members, and if either or both ends are to terminate at perpendicular wall, open a channel and insert this "system", support with a 4x4 and a Simpson or Harlan or equivalent light weight "end" beam to post hanger, keeping in mind that you will have to supply a solid 1/2" filler. Sister this with two full length studs nailed with 16D each side to the 4x4.

If this is to be installed within the continuous length of an existing wall, the support remains the same and it can be cut to length so that existing wall framing members can be used as king studs, a "T" type "beam to post connector may also be used. Additionally, install a 24" framing strap from the top plate to the beam, on each end.
 
  #3  
Old 08-04-04, 07:39 AM
bmurr
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Thanks for the info. The beam is actully 1 3/4 x 11 5/8 or there about. I will be linking one end with a continuous wall and terminating the other with a post. Would you suggest that I try to remove the top and cap plates or put the beam in below these? Do you think the size of the beams are an overkill? Thanks again for the advise.
 
  #4  
Old 08-04-04, 08:58 PM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,150
<<<Thanks for the info.>

<The beam is actully 1 3/4 x 11 5/8 or there about.>

Good, so the nominal thickness will be the same as the existing framing. Saves you some work.

<a post.>

Within a wall cavity, I presume.

<Would you suggest that I try to remove the top and cap plates or put the beam in below these?>

Thats the simplest way, however, keep in mind, you must maintain a minimum header height of 6' 8", finished.

I am assuming that this engineer has instructed you in the method of "marrying" these two beams to gather, if not, they float, and thats a whole nuther problem.

It boils down to a matter of aesthetics, there are three options, "dropped"( as previously discussed), partially recessed and full recessed( above the ceiling), each of which, pose a different yet similar circumstance.

If you can insert these framing members an still maintain both double top plates and your min. hdr. height, thats a plus. Even if you have to remove one of the two, it still ok, you still have the "tie" for the lateral shear.

You are also aware that you must support the ceilings on both sides, while removing this wall.

<Do you think the size of the beams are an overkill?>>>

Yes, I would have used a 4x10,DF, #1 at a minimum.
 
  #5  
Old 08-05-04, 12:21 PM
bmurr
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Thanks again for the info Snoonyb.

How would you suggest "marrying" the beams? He basically told me to glue them, the lag bolt them together. One on each end through the structure and one bolt in the middle. Is that correct in your opinion?

The beam separates the living and kitchen with a counter underneath, so I assume the minimum height will not matter except for appearence. I've decided to take out the bottom plate and mount the beam.
 
  #6  
Old 08-05-04, 08:20 PM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,150
I would use 10, 10D staggered, each side and opposing each other.

It will matter if there is a pedestrian passage, any way, your probably close as it is.
Set the beam supports on the sole plate, not the floor sheating, which can have voids.

Enjoy your new kitchen.
 
  #7  
Old 08-12-04, 07:44 AM
bmurr
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Snoonyb,

The beam is up and solid. Thanks for all of your help. The space seems twice as large now.

Brian
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes