Underlayments: Different Heights


  #1  
Old 08-20-04, 09:39 AM
UnclePonto
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Underlayments: Different Heights

Hello,

I actually have a few questions on subfloors and was looking for comments and thoughts. First, I bought a 20 yr old townhouse. Nice construction except that the builder decided to skimp on the UL and use PB. It was under carpet but the carpet had to go and we're installing HW Floors (3/4" Bruce Hardwood - solid strip floring 2 1/4 inch, I believe). So, I'm pulling up the PB now - and Floorman on this site nailed it when he pontificated about why they even sell PB. Just as he predicted, it is disintegrating as I'm pulling it up. There's no way it could hold a nail. Thank god I checked on this b/c some folks were telling me to go straight into the PB.

Anyway, I digress. There is plywood subfloor of an unknown thickness underneath all of this. I'm guessing 1/2". But here's the thing, the builder laid down plywood UL in the kitchen of 1/2". I'd prefer to use 3/4" in the LR/DR for the sake of stability and strength under the hardwood. So here's what we're likely going to be dealing with: 3/4" ply UL in the DR / LR abutting 1/2 ply in the Kitchen. I may be able to use 1/2" given that it will be coupled with the subfloor for a net total of 1" or more but still...that seems a little thin. This meeting of unequals occurs, inconveniently, right in the center of the DR. In addition, the kitchen ply has linoleum on it. I'd guess it adds about about 1/16th to the thickness of the plywood in the kitchen. Maybe a little less. I don't want to take up the plywood in the kitchen if I can help it, but I need a relatively level transition for the hardwood. So, would it be advisable to put down 1/8th (I probably really need 3/16ths but doubt I can get that) ply over the linoleum to bring it close to level and make corrections with paper / felt or should I be thinking of some other way to get this done? Or should I just use 1/2" ply in the LR/DR and paper that to bring it up to level with the linoluemo covered floor? The other thing I'm thinking here is that to the extent possible without rebuilding the entire floor, I'd like to have the same 'feel' under the hardwood all over the house and for that I probably need a similar prep for both floors. Ideas about this?

Also, is Red Rosin Paper an acceptable moisture retardent or do I need to use builders felt or poly?
 
  #2  
Old 08-20-04, 10:48 AM
S
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[QUOTE=UnclePonto]Hello,

<There is plywood subfloor of an unknown thickness underneath all of this. I'm guessing 1/2".>

Exactly, 1/2" floor sheating is not used. 5/8th's, T&G or blocked, or 3/4" and on occasion 2-4-1, are all standard floor sheating, your is probably 5/8th's and the cause of the "disintegration" may well be attibuted to water damage from cleaning.
In consideration of your eventualy replacing the kitchen floor, use 1/2" ply 0r OSB, as a substrait for the hardwood, for the simplicity of transition, but not specifically for stability. the hard wood is sufficiently stable over the 5/8th's alone.
 
  #3  
Old 08-20-04, 11:27 AM
UnclePonto
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Thanks Snoonyb. So, just so I'm being clear and to ensure I understand what you are recommending: the subfloor underneath the UL is plywood and is in serviceable condition. You're saying that its likely 5/8ths - at least that. (Now that I am thinking about this, I may be able to check to be sure in the basement near the stairs.) yes, you are correct, where the PB is screwed up it is mostly from water damage. The cause of that has been resolved for some years now. So, I'll finish removing the PB (in LR/DR), put down 1/2" plywood, place the moisture barrier on top and nail the floor into that - this is what you are suggesting, yes? Quick question: the 2" cleats will likely go right through everything (about a 1/2" of flooring at the tongue, the UL, and the Subfloor). I guess it will stick out the bottom by something less than 3/8ths of an inch. That's not a problem, is it? Should I be thinking of using 1 1/2" cleats instead?
 
  #4  
Old 08-20-04, 02:05 PM
S
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Yes, yes and yes. 1.5" staples should be sufficient. They're driven in at a 30 degree angle, and should not protrude, insuring full embedment.
 
 

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