Starting to put studs up


  #1  
Old 09-08-04, 04:57 AM
timmyg123
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Question Starting to put studs up

in my basement. using a 14 1/2" spacer to get them 16" OC
But, by the time I get to the third one, it's a bit more than 48"
from the last.

Should I shorten my spacer a bit, or reduce the space of the
last one so that it's 4' feet from the first?
 
  #2  
Old 09-08-04, 06:17 AM
awesomedell's Avatar
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First thing, toss the spacer. Now get a standard tape measure, the stud markings are normally highlighted in red. Pull from one end of the sill plate, and simply place a mark at each stud marker, 16", 32", 48", etc. Then just center your studs on the marks.
 
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Old 09-08-04, 06:22 AM
MagusOfAtlan
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awesomedell's got it right. By the way - it's worth reminding everyone about not marking measurements on a single long wood piece and then cutting them out, the width of the saw blade will shrink each piece of wood on the inside. Cut, then measure, then cut, etc. (I know, it's not directly related to what you need to do here, but you're likely to start doing more cutting in a stage coming up.)
 
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Old 09-08-04, 07:08 AM
timmyg123
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awesome!
makes sense.

any more (general?) tips as I go along?
 
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Old 09-08-04, 07:08 AM
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Wink

When you do lay the studs out with the tape put the top and the bottom plate together and mark them both at the same time. That way they are inline.

ED
 
  #6  
Old 09-08-04, 11:52 AM
MagusOfAtlan
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timmyg - here's a tip worth gold:

Buy a 4' level. Also buy a good sized L-square.

Then use them often while putting up your studs to ensure your corners are a true 90 degrees, and that the front face of the studs is even across the studs. Also that the stud is level in the up-down direction.

Why? Well, you'll find moulding to be MUCH easier if the corners are square. Drywall goes up easier if the studs are even across them. Walls that are level up-down make things hang better on them, and also make moulding easier to do right.

Use waterproofed 2x4s on the bottom to prevent rotting.

Use a second 2x4 at the top, hang your ceiling drywall before the wall drywall - part of the top 2x4 will be hidden, so the second one will give you something solid to screw into with the drywall.

In corners, put an additional 2x4 to give the end of the drywall extra strength and space to screw into.

Leave some extra width in door frames to give you room to play with the door to ensure it open smoothly and can close properly.

Do those and you'll be SO much happier when you are doing the finishing work on the room(s). I could kill the guy that did my framing without doing some of the extra steps above. It caused me a ton of extra time and material on the back end.
 
 

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