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How would you patch this floor? (link to pictures)

How would you patch this floor? (link to pictures)


Old 09-16-04, 08:50 AM
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How would you patch this floor? (link to pictures)

Hey All,

This is just a repost from another forum. Seems to be a few more active folks in this one.

I need to know how other people would approach this flooring patch situation.

Link to Floor Pictures

I have "plenty" of matching flooring I can repair with (salvaged from an outbuilding).

I don't mind if it looks "patched", but I do want it to look like the job was done properly.

The room itself is our newly expanded living room. As it stands now, the damaged area will most likely be mostly covered by a couch or sofa. But I don't want to limit my furniture arrangement according to how my floor looks

How would you approach repairing this area? Weaving in new boards? Making a perpendicular patch?

Any suggestions greatly appreciated!

Spending today ripping up my donor floor. Would be GREAT to have a few ideas today/tomorrow! Thanks!
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Old 09-16-04, 10:32 AM
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Southern U.S.
Posts: 73
I would try to remove ~ 3" off of each side and miter in the new pieces. Measure and cut each one individually. If you have access to or own a cabinetry (SPELLING?) compund miter saw I would cut with it leave a 1/32" short to allow for expansion. make sure the subfloor is in good repair also.

hope this helps,
Old 09-16-04, 04:40 PM
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As in a straight line across?

I was under the impression that I should stagger any new joints I make, for better visual blending.
Old 09-17-04, 04:19 AM
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,150
While staggered joints and weaving is the desired method of achieving the most aesthetically appealing patch, some reality's, for the novice, must be faced.
Since this is probably tongue and grove, staggering one end is relatively easy, the other end can successfully be a butt joint.
Since you may find this too redundant in such a narrow width, weaving can be the challenge because it will require some lifting and twisting to allow for fitting of the T & G.
While prudent trimming of both the tongue and bottom side of the grove will simplify your efforts, it will also necessitate nailing.
Given the age of the material, nailing will be some what of trial and error in preventing splitting.
Start with 6P finish. Using a drill bit smaller than the shank of the nail, at an angle and 2" from the end, drill the board.
Having saved any saw dust from this project and with the nails all set,
combine it with a lacquer to make a putty like paste and fill the nail holes.
Old 09-17-04, 07:22 AM
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Thanks for the advice!

I have a few short boards along the patch where I have to stagger the joints at both ends. I'll try that first and make a judgement call as to if I want to continue the process, or just settle with butt joints.

I had planned on using my pneumatic finish nailer and 1.5" nails (subfloor is 1" planks). What would be the best nail head orientation for holding strength and concealability? Parallell or perpendicular to the grain?

I'm guessing parallell would hide better, but with increased risk of splitting the wood and lesser holding strength. Perpendicular would hold better, but there'd be very obvious nail holes.

Opinions or thoughts?

Thanks for the sawdust advice btw! I have a nice Makita compound miter saw w/dustbag I can use to collect a good amount of filler material from.
Old 09-17-04, 08:58 AM
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,150
Your thoughts on the nailing are correct and the reason I suggest the non-mechanical method, that and not getting full penetration.
Old 09-18-04, 09:41 AM
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Wife coaxed me into actually replacing a larger section of floor.

It's working out easier actually, because I pulled up a 8' section and am replacing the boards "new", no weaving needed.

Going to place the new section perpendicular to the existing flooring (also will be nailed perpendicular to the plank subflooring) and inlay a nice border and maybe a medallion in the center.

After looking at the replacement wood from my other floor, we decided there would nearly be no way I could repair the area without it looking obviously patched. So, if we're gonna have a "patch" on the floor, might as well make it look the way WE want

Thanks for the tips guys! I'll try to post some finished pics soon.

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