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OK to just glue to i-beam, or do I need to drill?

OK to just glue to i-beam, or do I need to drill?

Old 11-16-04, 06:36 PM
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OK to just glue to i-beam, or do I need to drill?


I am building out the last unfinished room of my basement (the guys who built this house built out the rest of the basement).

There is a roughed-in bathroom, with a steel i-beam running the length of it, about 10 feet. I want to attach a wood 1x8 to the bottom of the i-beam, so I will have a surface to attach the (steel) ceiling framing and drywall.

Will construction adhesive be sufficient to attach the wood, or should I drill through the i-beam and bolt the 1x8? If I need to drill, what kind of drill bit should I be using?

Thanks for your help. This is a great site. Wish I had found it before.

Old 11-16-04, 07:32 PM
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I would not trust adhesive especially for a ceiling application. You can use a carbon steel bit. They aren't expensive but if you buy the cheapest one it will dull faster so let your muscles be your guide. Better idea is to buy 2. If you twist it in the beam it will more than likely break. 10 ft you should only need about six bolts. I would stagger them rather than 3 sets of 2. Good luck with your project.
Old 11-17-04, 04:06 AM
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Thank you!
Old 11-28-04, 06:40 PM
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A little late to comment, but I would just add to what MAJAKDRAGON said by advising you to lubricate the bit if you start seeing smoke as you drill. I just use motor oil on the rare occassion I am drilling though thick metal.

Also, apply good steady pressure. Otherwise, the bit will spin against the metal but not cut, unnesseccarily heating the bit. This can cause the bit to loose its temper. OK, the bit doesn't get mad at you...wrong kind of temper.

You may also want to devise some way to catch the shavings rather than let them fall, especially if you already have a finished floor. Even if you sweep, someones bare feet may find the metal shavings you missed, and metal splinters hurt.
Old 06-05-05, 03:58 AM
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This might be alittle late to be of help to phlewis123, for using a hand drill on a steel beam flange. But for anyone that has to do so, this gizmo could make the job easier. When you go to the hardware store to buy your bolts, washers and nuts, etc. Also purchase two lengths of 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 angle iron 36" long w/ the pre-drilled holes. And two 3/8"x 1" and two 3/8"x 1 1/4"Hex bolts , 8-flat washers, and locking nuts for same, a hacksaw and blades if you don't have one, and two 3" C-clamps. And the drill-bits you need that are 1/16" larger diameter than the bolts for the beam.
Take one angle iron, cut off a 12" piece, and clamp it to the underside of the beam, about 6- 8" from the centerpunch mark of the first hole, with one 3/8"x1 bolt, washers and nut, bolt the 24" angle to the leg pointing down of the clamped angle, leaving the bolt loose, now chuck up the drill motor and drill-bit, measure the overall length, (let's say its 14", now bolt the 36" angle at it's end, to the leg of the vertical angle iron, in one of the pre-punched holes that is about 14"-15" below the beam, with one leg facing up. Now you need to find a scrap piece of 3/4" plywood, cut it 3" wide and 5 or 6" long, and while you're in the garage, clamp it in the vise, and with a hand saw, cut a 45 degree Vee about 1" deep on one long edge, now bring it back to the beam and drill, lay the block of plywood inside the 36" angle, and clamp it about 6-8" away from the pivot bolt, use the drill to bore two holes through the angle's holes and through the wood, use the longer 3/8" bolts to fasten the wood to the angle with the Vee facing up to cradle the back end of the drill motor, place the drill-bit in the centerpunch mark, and use the 36" angles as leverage and drill through any steel flange in no time, letting off alittle when the bit starts to cut through.
Wear safety glasss, gloves and put a tarp down to catch metal chips.
This drill fixture works in any position/beam, angle, C-channel you can clamp to, and even in wood beams. In the shop, or on a construction job in the field.
Old 06-05-05, 05:59 AM
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Three words...

Powder actuated fastener.

Especially with metal studs as the original poster was using.

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