Windows are installed askew

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  #1  
Old 07-01-05, 08:35 AM
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Windows are installed askew

We added a level. On the main level, we added 2" to each stud in order to obtain the equivalens 2x6 framing. About 20 new windows were installed and then foam insulation was applied on the walls.

When I began to drywall, I noticed that the windows reveals are not even left to right, or top to bottom. They appear to be fine on the outside of the house, but not the inside. Here is a drawing from the top down. The red represents the window reveal, the yellow the trim (not in place) the brown is the wall, and the blue is the floor.

The builder does not want to pull them all out and re-install. He suggests that I can take care of this with trim.

How best to do this? I am able to use a hand-plane to plane off the sections that stick out too far, and I tried cutting pieces to fill in the voids, but it is going poorly - I am not happy with the results.

I am thinking that I can install an additional piece of trim that would cover the gap if I can get the moulding to lay flat from the drywall to the edge of the reveal.

Thoughts, comments? Thanks
 
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Old 07-01-05, 05:24 PM
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rdhamm

Welcome to windows 101. There are two ways to install windows. One is square and plumb with the house. This is the best if your house is square and level. The other is installation that is an installation in a house that may be out of plumb or not square. This type of installation is usually found in older homes, or remodels. It is an installation where the window looks good to the eye, but may not be plumb or square. However, there is one thing that is a real No, No. That is where the window is not inserted correctly where it sticks outside of the wall or inside of the wall. It should be flush with the wall in either case. If it is too far out or in, then it is an contractor error. Contractors do not like to come back and redo a window. Also they were correct in saying cover the gap with trim. However the gap should not be over 1/4". I hope I have given you enough information and insight for you to make your next decision . Have a good day.
 
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Old 07-03-05, 06:32 PM
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Many windows have nailing flanges that are very flexible. This is good and bad. The problem it creates is that windows often don't sit flush with the wall when the contractors just slap them in, and nail the flange to the sheeting, and think they are done (or think the trimmer will fix the rest).

Often, the parts that stick in past the drywall can simply be pushed out with a little force, and can be held in place with a few strategically placed shims and nails. If the windows won't budge, then you get out the hand planer and belt sander. It's a little harder (but less critical) to get the window to push in if the jamb is below the wall surface. You have to push from the outside of the house in the same manner and have a helper inside to shim and nail. If they won't move, due to the window being caulked to the siding or similar, then you have to hope that it's close enough to trim. Having a shim that tapers from 1/4" to nothing isn't a very nice prospect.

Sad to say, this is pretty standard stuff and it always falls to the trimmer to fix it or hide it. Good luck.
 
  #4  
Old 07-05-05, 09:00 AM
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Interesting responses: Xsleeper & Jack

Unfortunately, due to the foam insulation, pushing the windows about isn't working. Additionally, the some of the gaps or reveals that stick out to far are in excess of 1/2".

That said,

Xsleeper, you said:
this is pretty standard stuff and it always falls to the trimmer to fix it or hide it

And Jack, you said:

there is one thing that is a real No, No. That is where the window is not inserted correctly where it sticks outside of the wall or inside of the wall. It should be flush with the wall in either case. If it is too far out or in, then it is an contractor error.

So, if it is a no-no and it is standard stuff - what gives? Some of the windows have exterior siding over them, and they all have foam around them. It sounds as if I will be left to my own devices (sand-paper, plane and trim) to make it look ok.

The house style is Prairie, which does not have many mitered joints. I was planing on using butt joints for the window trim with 1 X 4 clear pine. I suspect I should use butt joints for this interior of window trim as well. - thoughts?

Should the covering trim go around the inside of the window reveal, starting at the outside of the window trim and extending inside a certain distance to ensure the covering of all of the gaps? Since the windows are for 2 x 6 framing, at least I have some space to work with. thoughts?

What thickness do you recommend? I will be using clear pine and I have a benchtop planer. thoughts?

BTW, this stinks.
 
  #5  
Old 07-07-05, 03:18 PM
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That spray foam can be a pain too. Did you make sure the windows function properly? A number of years back people tried to foam windows and it used to bind the windows rather nicely. So now there is a Window and Door type too, that variety doesn't expand as much. Friend of mine was rather mad after he did that to 4 new windows on a remodel job.
 
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Old 07-08-05, 07:10 AM
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Special Foam for around the windows

Many window manufacturers won't honor their warrenty if foam insulation is used. Therefore, we had the window manufacturer sign off on the foam that was used before we foamed around the windows.

It was a special low-expansion stuff.
 
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