Garage Conversion

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Old 07-27-05, 07:50 PM
Garage Man
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Garage Conversion

Hi all,

I am converting our double car garage to living space. It is 21' deep by 25' wide, and the ceiling beams are 12' high. There is a 3 1/2 inch slope from back to front. I was thinking of making the sleepers from 2 x 6 pine, on vapour barrier, and tapering them such that they would be 2" thick at the back of the garage, and 5 1/2" thick at the front. Is this a good plan, or is there a better way to do this? Is pine okay? I live in Ontario, Canada where the temp goes from -20F to 95F plus humidity.

Thanks for your help.
 
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Old 07-27-05, 08:18 PM
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The ceiling is 12' high? So when you come out of the house, do you have several steps down into the garage? And I assume you are doing away with the garage doors?

I think you best think about how cold that floor is going to be. garage floor slabs usually aren't insulated, and the sleepers you are talking about using aren't thick enough to provide any sort of insulation. If possible, it might be better if you could frame the floor in using floor joists that would enable you to insulate and possibly even run ductwork out there.
 
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Old 07-28-05, 10:52 AM
Garage Man
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Yes, there is an entry from the house, with three steps then the slab. I am planning on using a wood stove as my primary heat source, with electric baseboards for back up. I will also bring in one forced air vent through the wall. So, I'm not planning on needing to raise the floor for the sake of duct work, though that is a good suggestion. Being that the slab is on grade, how tall should the subfloor be to provide for adequate insulation? Do you have any specific insulation suggestions?
 
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Old 07-28-05, 04:51 PM
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I'd frame the floor with 2x10's rather than tapering sleepers. To keep it level, a continuous shim (since you have 3 1/2" drop, use a 2x2 midway, then 2x4 on the end) and run them perpendicular to the floor joists. Then use fiberglass batts. (10")
 
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Old 07-28-05, 06:55 PM
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Garage Man,

I agree with "x sleeper" that if you use sleepers I would use larger framing as suggested. I would use pressure treated material in such a high moisture area. I would also insulate with r-19 minimum with the air space going to the underfloor side.

If you do not want the steps and you want the floor to be level, I would use 2x6 pressure treated plate and frame 4x4 posts to a girder and then frame my joists on top of that. I would ledger the walls and hang my joists from there.

No matter what you will want that moisture barrier.

I hope this helps.

Brian Garrison
General Contractor/Professional Building Designer
 
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