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Intersecting load bearing walls


biver's Avatar
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09-01-05, 10:58 AM   #1  
biver
Intersecting load bearing walls

I would like to remove sections of two interior walls (that I believe are load bearing) that intersect. I am familiar with the principles of removing single load bearing walls, and I imagine removing two that intersect might require a support post. I am looking to avoid a post if possible, though its not a deal breaker.

Wall A: runs along the center of house perpendicular to 2x6 ceiling joists that meet and overlap in the center. This is definitely load bearing, as it appears to support the ceiling joists. Wall a terminates against wall b

Wall B: Used to be the exterior wall, and sits on the foudation. Wall A terminates against Wall B. On the other side of this wall used to be a carport, which had a room added on. Over the carport section, the joists have switched direction, and Wall B seems to support the end plate for these joists.
See here

I have heard of notching the joists out so that a beam may be embedded in them, allowing for a smooth ceiling. If I do that with one beam (wall a), then maybe the second beam (wall b) can be a normal "drop" beam without a post....

All comments welcome. This is for a kitchen remodel. Approx where the support beam would be is athe edge of a kitchen island. A support post would not be the end of the world, as I figure I can build a "decorative" half wall to edge the kitchen island and meet up with the post. Maybe even add another post at the other end of the island for symmetry???


Thanks
aaron

 
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09-02-05, 08:16 AM   #2  
if there is enough depth

you might be able to make both flush and use a hanger to connect the beams to each other.

 
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09-02-05, 11:08 AM   #3  
I'd be surprised if you could get away with no post where Wall A meets Wall B. It would have to be one honking I-beam to replace Wall B.

But...I am no structural engineer.

 
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09-02-05, 11:46 AM   #4  
biver
Clarification

Oh, sorry, I think I failed to specify that I do not wish to remove the entire length of wall B, just from 3 feet north of the intersection point to the back of the house (south). There is a doorway running from the intersection to 3 feet north...and I plan to use the north end of this doorway as the north end off the support system replacing wall B.

A builder recommended replacing each wall span with a traditional 4x12 beam - wall B replaced by a beam which is supported by embedded posts at each end, and wall A replaced by a beam that is supported by an embedded post at the east end and joist-hangered into "beam B" at the west end.

I think "beam B" would not have to be a big honker because the N/S joist header above it does not support much weight. The 2x6 directly above wall B is an end piece for a short ceiling section - the 15-foot E/W joists butt into this end peice, and the end peice rests on wall B. There is no other weight on wall B.

 
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09-02-05, 11:54 AM   #5  
biver
thoughts about sistering joists and freestanding posts

I am now thinking about replacing wall B with support system flush with the ceiling, and replacing wall A with beam supported in part by a free-stading post. The post might be made to look like it belongs if it is part of a half-wall bordering the kitchen island.

Wall B: I can give the 2x6 N/S joist above wall B a "sister" (and maybe a plywood separator in between them), and support the sistered/double joist with big posts at either end (about a 13 foot span). I can then remove wall B and give addl. support for each E/W joist with a joist hanger. Since this sistered joist duo is already in the ceiling, viola, I hope I have a flush solution for wall B.

[The end of each E/W joist now rests partly on wall B and is also nailed into the end of the N/S joist above wall B, so I think some joist hangers would help take the place of wall B as far as the E/W joists are concerned]

Wall A could be replaced with a proper beam, supported by a post at either end (one embedded in the east wall, and the other free standing).

How stupid does this sound?

Maybe I should ask a structural engineer to evaluate it. I would hate to be hit in the head with my roof at some later point.

 
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