Replacing floor of slide/tip-out

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  #1  
Old 09-20-05, 11:40 AM
slowe1
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Replacing floor of slide/tip-out

Hi,

I have just put a 1980 Fleetwood Barrister on my property. I put it on a slab. The house is 66' x 14'. It has a slide/tip-out, not sure what it's called. Last week I had a licenced mobile home installer help me put the blocks of concrete under it that hold it up. Now I am trying to figure out what to do with the slide/tip-out. First of all, when we lowered the floor of the slide/tip-out from where is was stored for the move, it is on a giant hinge, I found that a corner of the floor boards is rotten. The flooring that is on there is 1" fiber board (looks like sawdust pressed into 3' x 12' board) that has a million staples holding it to the 2' x 4's. Right now I am trying to pry that board up, what a pain! There is no power until Friday so I am unable to use a sawzall, etc.

I am thinking about taking both of the pieces of fiber board up from this part of the home and replacing it with 1" tongue and groove "A" plywood which I hear is very expensive. I really don't know what I am doing and am also not sure how the slide/tip-out will all hook together. I am looking for lots of advise. TIA ~Slowe1
 

Last edited by slowe1; 09-20-05 at 12:15 PM. Reason: more descriptive
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  #2  
Old 09-20-05, 07:16 PM
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I think I understand what you are describing - a factory addition to the MH that 'slides' out to expand the room. The flooring you describe is probably 3/4" particle board. When it gets wet it swells and falls apart. At any rate if you are replacing the whole floor 3/4" will be fine. Yes plywood prices have went sky high and Katrina will likely raise them more and keep them that way for awhile.
Did you get the room out and set up? With out having the advantage of being there and looking at it I assume the best method of attack is to set it up as best it can be and repair/replace what needs be. Personally I would wait for power before working on it - love power tools * hate arm powered tools If you don't have any carpentry skills it may be nice to have someone who does to help you.
 
  #3  
Old 09-22-05, 05:08 AM
slowe1
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Thank you marksr! Yes, a factory made addition (12' x 6') that slides out to expand the room. I measured the thickness of the particle board (I will measure again to be sure though) and it is 1". There are only 2 pieces, they are odd shaped (something like 12' x 3'), I guess they must have been special made for these type buildings. While the walls and roof are all attached to each other in a 4 sided box shape, the floor is seperate. So what I have done so far is put the floor into place and removed the partical board that had a rotten hole in it. The walls and roof are still pushed inside the main part of the home.

At this point I am planning on removing the other board and replacing them both with 3 pieces of 1" plywood, 'A' grade. I am concerned that if I use a 3/4" board that I will have problems with the way the roof and walls attach to the house, not to mention that the rest of the floor will be 1/4" higher. I figured 'A' grade because I might decide to paint the floor for now until I can afford better flooring and I have been told that the thin vinyl products show any and every imperfection of the sub floor.

Do I have to have L&I inspect this? I know with mobiles there are lots of things that must be inspected by L&I that don't on a stick built house.

Also if anyone out there is familiar with setting up these slide/tip outs I would love to know how it is going to attach to the house.

Have a great day! ~Slowe1

P.S. I should have power this afternoon, yea!
 
  #4  
Old 09-22-05, 07:42 AM
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If the flooring is 1" and money tight you can use 2 layers of 1/2" plywood. My second MH had 3/4" particleboard and I mistakenly though it was 1". I priced 1" plywood and bought 1/2" I have been in several MHs with your type of addition but have never worked on one. I assume that there is a gasket or flashing to seal it and the rest of it sets on block.
I'm not familiar with L&I but assume it is a local inspection dept. Codes vary greatly from area to area. Out in the county where I live the only inspections required are for set back, elec and septic. A few miles away you have to get a permit for most everything you do besides mow the lawn.
When laying vinyl flooring it is always best to first put down a 1/4" underlayment [often laun] first with the joints staggered. The MH industry uses a lot of things that aren't standard to the housing industry but most 'normal' building products can be adapted to work.
 
  #5  
Old 09-25-05, 10:41 AM
slowe1
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Thank you marksr, I will re-measure with your experience in mind! That is a great idea about using 2 layers of 1/2" if the fiber board is 1". Then I could use a low grade for the bottom and an underlayment grade for the top layer.

L & I = Washington State Labor and Industries
I was thinking it was a federal thing, but it's a Washington state agency. I will give them a call and see if I need an alteration permit. If I don't get one and it was needed it could make the home uninsurable, unrentable and unsaleable according to their web site!
www.lni.wa.gov/news/2000/pr000426a.asp
http://www.lni.wa.gov/

Thank you! ~slowe1
 
  #6  
Old 09-25-05, 05:25 PM
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WOW - L&I is strict - glad they aren't in east tenn I guess it is wise to check with them first. Better safe than sorry. IMO common sense is most of what is needed. Of course there does seem to be a number of folks lacking in that dept Wish you luck.
 
  #7  
Old 09-26-05, 05:01 AM
slowe1
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Thanks again marksr!
 
  #8  
Old 09-28-05, 06:38 AM
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Installation

Instillation

The addition you are referencing is called and expando or roll out.
Most expandos are sized 7 ft. x ?? ft
If in fact it was a factory installed addition, I doubt that the decking is 1". That is an overkill. .
The thickness at the piano hinge is critical.

To install:
Drop and level the floor as you have done.
Support it at the perimeters < 8' oc and I would also support at the hinge (marriage line)
The roof and walls (as a unit) are designed to push out from the inside out. The expando unit on the open side is somewhat flimsy at this point. It would be good to screw braces from the base on the side wall to the facing in front of the ceiling. The factory usually provides rollers that screw on to the unit to cut friction during the roll out. A sub. for this would be several pieces of 1/2 inch pipe placed under the bottom plate of the expando unit.
Once the unit is lined up around the perimeter and butted at the facing to the main unit inside, screw or bolt the bottom plate of the unit to new floor of the unit outside.
Then screw all facing to the main unit from the inside.
Check for a jumper line, and connect, to an outlet to provide elec. to the expando unit.
Insulate all areas not already insulated.
Next install the balance of the siding and flashing at the rough opening exterior. Pay special attention to the L flashing at the roof. Make sure and seal that and seal the windows and all around the perimeter and seams of the addition where the roof meets the siding. (note: the lack of that is probably the source of you floor problem).
Finally you can do the trim out on the inside.
Some units have an additional floor to ceiling support in the center area of the addition to prevent droop.

Good Luck
 
  #9  
Old 10-09-05, 12:01 PM
slowe1
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I checked again and you are both right, my flooring is 3/4"! I am planing on using 3/4", tongue and groove, AC plywood and securing them with a tube of floor glue and 2" fast tap screws.

Adago2~ Thank you for the detailed description! While I keep talking to people and slowly figuring things out, you just moved me forward considerably.

~slowe1

P.S. The expando floor is 7'4" x 11'9"! Thanks again!
 
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