Advice needed on framing - replace metal studs?


Old 08-30-06, 08:30 PM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: SoCal
Posts: 10
Advice needed on framing - replace metal studs?

I am looking for some advice regarding a "Yoga Rope Wall" I am helping to construct for a friend's Yoga studio. A rope wall is basically a wall of 3/4" plywood with ropes hanging from it that are used for various Yoga poses.

Originally, the wall was covered in mirror. When we took that down, we discovered that the original studs were metal, not wood. In addition, the entire mirror wall covered a brick wall with three columns protruding from the wall.

My concern is that since the goal is to have a wall 8 feet tall and 27 feet wide with something like 10 to 15 adults hanging onto it, there will be substantial loads placed on it. I'm not worried about the plywood, but rather the underlying metal studs.

I am looking for advice on whether it is possible to reinforce the existing framing with 2X4's and additional ties to the brick wall, or if the metal studs need to come down and be replaced with wood framing. Finally, best approach to tying into the brick wall?

I have my own thoughts, but am doing this with a couple of other friends, hence a debate has ensued. I was hoping for some clarity from this board. I was going to attach a couple of pictures to show what the underlying wall and studs look like, but the forum says I can't.

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Old 08-31-06, 02:58 AM
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,150
The metal studs, correctly attached to, will probably support
the plywood.
However, you can sister 2X next to the existing and use "L" brackets to attach to the brick wall.
However, brick is not approved for structural attachment, so attach only at the grout lines.
Old 08-31-06, 05:04 AM
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 6,125
Advice needed on framing - replace metal studs?

Structurally, the wrinkled tin studs will be strong enough to carry the loads, but may not be satisfactory for your purposes. You are applying unconventional loads.

There is a big difference between strength and deflection or stability, especially with lightweight building materials.

I can visualize 27 frustrated students fighting a non-rigid wall when they are trying to hold a position. It sounds like you may have an older building if you have a brick (not block) structural wall with stiffening pilasters. The metal studs were probably thrown up to provide a quick, cheap way of finishing off an older area.

You will probably replace the wall surface anyway, so I would look into the possibility of trashing the tin and building a new wood frame wall at the outer surface of the columns and attached to the masonry to provide a solid wall surface that will take everything you can throw at it.

If you are doing it with friends, the labor is "free" so you might as well buy some more of the correct wall materials.

Snooby is correct recommending attachment to the mortar joints. This is more predictable and stable than trying to tie into a very hard, strong brick. The mortar is consistant. The brick can vary widely in their properties and still be strong enough.

Old 08-31-06, 10:29 AM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: SoCal
Posts: 10
Thanks for the replies. I was unaware of the issue about tying into brick itself.


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