Framing windows - how it turned out

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  #1  
Old 01-24-07, 06:39 PM
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Framing windows - how it turned out

Well, for better or worse, I've finished the job of framing my two egress windows in place of the two smaller double casement windows, so I thought I'd describe what I did just to see if I did anything really bad that I should fix before I put all the siding back up tommorrow.

The biggest issue for me was the headers, the additional 3" width for the rough openning meant I needed a longer header. Due to issues accessing the header and the risk of damage to the interior wood panelling, I had to leave the interior 2x6 in place, splice the last 3" to it and use a new exterior 2x6.

For the second window, I got a crazy idea... Instead of splicing 3" of 2x6, maybe I could keep the original structure mostly in-tact. Instead of removing the old king stud completely, I cut it off at the openning and attached it to the new jack stud, which I ran from the sill plate to the top plate. To accomodate the new exterior header board, I notched the jack stud. This allowed one continuous header board, but the jack stud also was continuous from sill plate to top plate, and the original nail joints for the interior header were in place instead of it having to be toe nailed.

Everything else was pretty straight forward, but when I uncovered the framing around the second window, there it was - a wire running right under the old window, 2" above where the new sill plate had to go. No way I could replace the wire to get the extra length, so I used the need for splicing to add 2 more receptacles (I have an open electrical permit for the bedroom I can amend).

God knows if I went with the $1900 to have Wallside put in the new windows instead of the $400 it cost me to do it myself, the price would've gone up when they had to add an electrician~

Anyways, I'm beat, and tommorrow I gotta get the siding back up, then it's off to look at houses Friday, Saturday & Sunday I'm just getting everything together to move down to Indiana for my new job.
 
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  #2  
Old 01-25-07, 06:47 AM
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Never splice a header

A spliced header would never pass a framing inspection. They are designed to span a rough opening for a reason--support--and by splicing a header you have eliminated this support.
 
  #3  
Old 01-25-07, 11:19 AM
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Alright, bear in mind that if I'm frustrated, it's because of the situation and not directed at anybody who has responded to my questions... All the responses I've had have been helpful, it's just that I'm under extreme and unforgiving time constraints, and my ability to quickly sell my home is at stake. I just wish I knew everything I know now when I started instead of when I was done (at least that is when I thought I was done with the framing part of the job)

If I was told that there was no alternative but to risk the destruction of my panelling by fully removing and replacing the header, that's what I would've done to begin with. I know that the half replacement was a less robust solution than the ideal of fully replacing both header boards. I needed options, or to know if there were no options, and in my other thread, splicing was suggested.

I'm just out here trying to do the right thing. Had I not even replaced the windows, it may have never even come up. Counting on that would have been a gamble, and I'm not like that.

And because I took the time to re-do it right, I might not be able to get all the siding back up before I have to start my job in Indiana, and I probably will have wasted the $200 I spent on a dumpster for cleaning out the garage because I might not have the time for it. It'll get done, I'll have to hire someone and hope my wife can manage directing the work, and as I said, I''m frustrated but I don't want to sound like I don't appreciate any of the advice I've been given here, it's just a tough situation I'm in.

In retrospect, I thought of another solution that would've had the integrity of a new header without having to remove the old... Could I have spliced the old header and put a new full length header on top of it, or maybe a full length 2x6 on the inside on top of the old with a 2x12 on the outside covering both the old & new? Kind of an overkill solution?
 
  #4  
Old 01-25-07, 01:12 PM
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"Alright, bear in mind that if I'm frustrated, it's because of the situation and not directed at anybody who has responded to my questions... All the responses I've had have been helpful, it's just that I'm under extreme and unforgiving time constraints, and my ability to quickly sell my home is at stake".

Sgtgerryf is not trying to beat up on you, he is just pointing out the irrevocable fact that a spliced header member cannot perform the function for which it is intended.

"I just wish I knew everything I know now when I started..."

We/ve all been there.

"If I was told that there was no alternative but to risk the destruction of my panelling by fully removing and replacing the header, that's what I would've done to begin with. I know that the half replacement was a less robust solution than the ideal of fully replacing both header boards. I needed options, or to know if there were no options, and in my other thread, splicing was suggested."

The poster who suggested splicing suggested a couple of ideas to reinforce the spliced joint, including using a steel plate sandwiched between the 2x6s, which is called a flitch beam. But it doesn't sound like you did this.

"I'm just out here trying to do the right thing. Had I not even replaced the windows, it may have never even come up. Counting on that would have been a gamble, and I'm not like that."

But, unless you go back in and fix this right, you are "gambling" that the weakened header will hold up.

"In retrospect, I thought of another solution that would've had the integrity of a new header without having to remove the old... Could I have spliced the old header and put a new full length header on top of it...?"

Assuming that there might be a section of cripple stud wall above the header that was wide enough to install an adequate new header, this might work, but I'm not sure it would have been any faster or less work than just dealing with damage to the paneling that would result from a direct replacement.
 
  #5  
Old 01-25-07, 06:40 PM
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I still would think a thin, long metal blade and saws-all would have gotten that header unglued from the paneling. It might have taken 15-20 min. of agony to work it through, but it should have worked.
 
  #6  
Old 01-25-07, 06:51 PM
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I had to deal with removing the panelling from the studs when I put a bathroom in this addition and I went to the trouble of removing the panelling to put up the drywall, it came off in splinters... I'm not sure if it was good clue, bad panelling or both.. then again, I was able to remove the king studs without trouble.

And for what it's worth, the original header on one of these windows was pretty weak by virtue of the knots or whatever weakened the board in the middle, when I put a pry-bar on it, the board spit in two right at the middle.

I had 8 3/4" of criple stud above the header.

Oh yeah, and the REAL kicker is that the builder inspector wasn't in Monday when I started the project, I wanted to find out from him if (as the salesperson from Wallside suggested) there was some new egress code greater than 5.7 square feet. By the time he called me back, when I was out in the cold nailing the header in, I had already bought the windows based on 5.7 square feet...

The punch line is that he informed me for a ground floor bedroom (which it is) I only need 5.0 square feet, which would have meant I would not have needed to widen the openning!!
 
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