new construction framing question...


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Old 04-09-07, 12:30 PM
S
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new construction framing question...

Hello all,

When framing a home I was wondering if it would be ok to just frame the outside walls then add the trusses and finish the roof(no inside walls are bearing). reason being to get the home weather tight as soon as possible. I've built one home and we framed all walls first then moved on to the trusses. I ask because it will be my brothers and I building the home and it obviously takes us longer to do everything than a regular framing crew. We just want to get the home weather tight ASAP. When we did my brothers home it took us 3 months to get it weather tight. A month alone from first truss to last shingle. Your thoughts?

ron
 
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Old 04-09-07, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by STUB
Hello all,

When framing a home I was wondering if it would be ok to just frame the outside walls then add the trusses and finish the roof(no inside walls are bearing). reason being to get the home weather tight as soon as possible. I've built one home and we framed all walls first then moved on to the trusses. I ask because it will be my brothers and I building the home and it obviously takes us longer to do everything than a regular framing crew. We just want to get the home weather tight ASAP. When we did my brothers home it took us 3 months to get it weather tight. A month alone from first truss to last shingle. Your thoughts?

ron
Ron,

Is this a Ranch House?

Are the trusses designed to span from the front wall to the back wall without any center partitions?
 
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Old 04-09-07, 02:17 PM
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yes, ranch house, no inside bearing walls. Basically a simple rectangle. Trusses will only sit on outside walls. I realize if we build the inside walls while laying flat on the floor and then try to raise them into position there will be that point where the walls will hit the trusses. This is what I'm a little worried about. I know I could build the walls in place but I don't really want to do that.

...I just thought of something. There is a double top plate(top of the wall plus an additional 2x4 on top of that). I think this would make it even easier. Just build the walls, raise them, then it should be pretty easy to slide in the top plates and nail them from above. There may be instances where nailing the top plate might be difficult because of the truss being in the way but I think this is the way to go.

ron
 
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Old 04-09-07, 02:21 PM
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Wink

Id say go for it dont foeget the top plate on the outside walls has to be open for the top plate on the inside wall to lap on to it.
 
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Old 04-09-07, 04:28 PM
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Yes, you can do that, we do it all the time. We always set our trusses before we do the bearing walls. By doing it this way, when you build your bearing walls, you can put your roof in tension and make it stronger. One thing I would do after tipping up the walls, and before installing your trusses, I would sheet my exterior walls. It keeps the framing square, and adds alot of strength to the walls. There is no way for them to slip or kink. Good Luck
 
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Old 04-09-07, 04:53 PM
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Jack,

What exactly do you mean by 'put your roof in tension'.

ron
 
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Old 04-09-07, 05:18 PM
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Ron:
I graduated from Engineering with specialities in Bridge and Trestle, and Tunnel Construction. So, I learned to put everything in tension. When I went into construction, I tried to incorporate everything I built with everything I learned. I love to put things in tension. They never come apart.
Ok, so much for my background. We put up the exterior walls. Then install the trusses. When setting trusses, I put 4 #16 sinkers in each end. Then, I put a block between each truss and they are attached not only to the truss on each side, but also to the top sill plate. I then install either truss hangers or hurricane ties depending on the code. I then sheet the roof, and also, nail in usually 16' 2x4's diagionally across the roof on the underside, and at least one form the peak on the inside down through the other trusses and finally nail it off on the furtherest truss it can reach. Now most homes I build have either a bearing wall down the center or two bearing walls 4 to 5 feet apart for a hallway. Now lets pretend that the top of the exterior wall and the botton of the truss are exactly 8 feet above the floor. When I build the bearing wall, I would build it exactly 8'-3/16". In other words 3/16 of an inch taller. I then put up the wall, and with a sledge hammer, hammer it plumb up against the bottom of the trusses. The wall is then attached to the trusses with #16 sinkers. At this point nothing is moving or wiggling. I then send a guy up inside the trusses and he hammers loose the point of the 16' 2x4 up at the peak. When he kicks it loose, there is a good sounding pop. The roof and trusses just went into tension. They are like iron. Not one wiggle. I do this with lots of things. I always have to make sure I have not forgotten anything, becuse if you have, you have to cut the wood apart, you won't hammer it. Hope this answers your question. Easier to show then tell, but I think I got everything here. Good Luck
 
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Old 04-09-07, 06:04 PM
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Jack,

Good explanation(I think). I think I understood everything you explained, just not the physics of it. What I mean is I think I could do it based on your excellent explanation, I just don't understand how the physics of it all work.

When I've done trusses before(and I've only done them a few times)we just toenail them to the top plate and then use the metal hangers that span between each truss and are nailed.(can't remember if these are truss hangers or hurricane ties). We also run the 16'ers on the underside to help tie things together.

So question. On my house there are no interior load-bearing walls at all. If the bottom of truss and top of wall are at exactly 8'(as per your example) would I still want to make the interior walls 3/16" higher or does this only pertain to using bearing walls? I had just planned on making the interior walls exactly 8', tipping them up, and toenailing them to the trusses.

ron
 
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Old 04-09-07, 07:08 PM
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In your case, you make them the same height as the bottom or your truss or the top of your sill. They should be the same elevation. If your planning on tipping the up like you say, you might want to build your wall a hair shorter then 8'. Maybe a 1/8" less. If you don't you may have trouble tipping them up. When they are up, you can just put in a shim to make them tight before connecting them. Good Luck
 
 

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