Does Subfloor Need Treating?


Old 06-03-07, 12:36 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 5
Does Subfloor Need Treating?

I posted these questions a few weeks ago and only got 1 reply from another novice like myself, so since I am further along with my project and need the info....I thought I would try again!

I live in a double-wide mobile home built about 1978. Because of a bathroom water leak caused by a "park" handyman before I bought the home (the toilet tank was cracked and filled with caulk - I'm sure that it was meant to hold only long enough to sign the closing papers) I am removing the old floors and putting in new ones.

In anticipation of laying down peel & stick tiles I have torn out most of the particle board floor, added extra bracing to accomodate an electric wheelchair, & will be completing the install of the new sub-floor tomorrow. I have a few questions:

1. How can I (easily) remove the old flooring under the vanity's toe-kick?

2. I will be using 3/4" ply (outdoor) for the new sub-floor. Since this wood has already been treated, do I need to seal it? I was told that kilz will seal it just fine. Do both sides need to be painted?

3. I plan on using an underlament - 1/4" birch - so do I need to fill the sub-floor's knot-holes & screw holes, then sand smooth or will the birch take care of this? Also, I have a few screws that didn't go in all the way and are slightly above the top of the board, do they need to be replaced or will the birch also help with this?

4. Since I am using an underlayment, should I wait to caulk where wall and boards meet when it is actually down or do this at the sub-floor level?

5. Is caulking the seams of the birch where pieces meet and sanding smooth sufficient before laying tiles, or are there other things I need to do to prepare the surface - does it need to be sealed with Kilz?

Thanks for any help that you can give me.

Take Care,
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Old 06-03-07, 03:53 AM
chandler's Avatar
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1) Remove the vanity before you replace the subflooring.
2) Use Advantech subflooring, as it is wax impregnated and needs no sealing.
3) Birch underlayment won't stand up the the pressures of an electric wheelchair. The peel and stick tiles will loosen the first day. Your screws should be set completely, and the birch, if you still plan on using it, should be glued down and stapled with narrow crown galvanized staples.
4) Don't caulk the seams, but offset the seams of the underlayment with the overlayment. Then edge glue linoleum rather than the peel and stick.
Post back if we can help further with the project. Good luck.

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