Welcome to the DoItYourself Forums!

To post questions, help other DIYers and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our DIY community. It's free!

glueing cripple studs?


wayhigh's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 7

06-06-07, 06:30 PM   #1  
glueing cripple studs?

I have a door frame where the cripple studs are so short and close to the joists that I can't really get my nailgun in to nail the cripple studs up.

Can I use construction glue instead?

If I can't, this is going to be a huge PITA so I'd appreciate any advice ya'll can give me.

Thanks,
WH

 
Sponsored Links
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator

Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 19,293
NE

06-06-07, 06:35 PM   #2  
If it's that tight, you could lay continuous framing horizontally and nail that in place instead of individual cripples. (provided no electrical needs to run through there)

 
wayhigh's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 7

06-06-07, 06:43 PM   #3  
I'm trying to fix a small error in measuring here. The problem is that the track for the pocket door is already in place and when I put that at the correct height I found out that my header was off by about 3 inches so I had to lower it. When I lowered it, I had to remove the small cripples that were already there so now I have this problem with the slightly larger cripples (about 4.5" in length).

The door frame has ductwork on one side that gets in the way so I can nail in the boards crossways on one side but the other is really hard to do. What you said may work... I'd still rather glue if it were allowed.



WH

 
Blakelpd5's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 39

06-06-07, 08:18 PM   #4  
In my area, glueing the cripples wont fly with the local building authority. What I would do is pre-drill them, and toe-nail them with a hammer on the 1 1/2" side (assuming it is a 2x material).

edit: I'm not sure if I'm reading the above post correctly, but I think what Xsleeper is trying to say is make your header taller. Just add more material in there to make it solid, all the way up to the top plate (if it is a bearing wall, which is sounds like it is). If you had the header up to high originally, and moved it down, it sounds like you may be able to go to a solid header with no cripples.

 
wayhigh's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 7

06-06-07, 09:13 PM   #5  
Your predrilling idea will probably work. I'll have to try that tomorrow.

The wall itself is just a partition wall. It's not load bearing at all.

Thanks for the help!

 
Search this Thread