glueing cripple studs?


Old 06-06-07, 06:30 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2006
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glueing cripple studs?

I have a door frame where the cripple studs are so short and close to the joists that I can't really get my nailgun in to nail the cripple studs up.

Can I use construction glue instead?

If I can't, this is going to be a huge PITA so I'd appreciate any advice ya'll can give me.

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Old 06-06-07, 06:35 PM
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If it's that tight, you could lay continuous framing horizontally and nail that in place instead of individual cripples. (provided no electrical needs to run through there)
Old 06-06-07, 06:43 PM
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I'm trying to fix a small error in measuring here. The problem is that the track for the pocket door is already in place and when I put that at the correct height I found out that my header was off by about 3 inches so I had to lower it. When I lowered it, I had to remove the small cripples that were already there so now I have this problem with the slightly larger cripples (about 4.5" in length).

The door frame has ductwork on one side that gets in the way so I can nail in the boards crossways on one side but the other is really hard to do. What you said may work... I'd still rather glue if it were allowed.

Old 06-06-07, 08:18 PM
Join Date: Apr 2007
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In my area, glueing the cripples wont fly with the local building authority. What I would do is pre-drill them, and toe-nail them with a hammer on the 1 1/2" side (assuming it is a 2x material).

edit: I'm not sure if I'm reading the above post correctly, but I think what Xsleeper is trying to say is make your header taller. Just add more material in there to make it solid, all the way up to the top plate (if it is a bearing wall, which is sounds like it is). If you had the header up to high originally, and moved it down, it sounds like you may be able to go to a solid header with no cripples.
Old 06-06-07, 09:13 PM
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Your predrilling idea will probably work. I'll have to try that tomorrow.

The wall itself is just a partition wall. It's not load bearing at all.

Thanks for the help!

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