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Do I need a jack stud on both sides of an opening?

Do I need a jack stud on both sides of an opening?

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  #1  
Old 08-21-07, 04:17 PM
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Do I need a jack stud on both sides of an opening?

(Florida)

I want to create two new openings in interior non-load bearing walls. I'm going to get permits and wish to do this right.

I'm not installing doors, these are just openings.

2x4 wall: One opening is restricted by a vent pipe going up from the slab through the single top plate. There is NO bottom plate where the vent comes out of the slab and the top plate is basically cut through by the hole for the vent. So the top plate basically ends there. I'd need to cut out ALL the bottom plate coming up to this stud so only the smallest piece of bottom plate would be left. The other side of the opening is restricted by an attached wall. That side has a jack. In order to get a wide enough opening that we're happy with, I'd need to toe nail (glue?) the single header into the lone stud rising next to the vent pipe. The stud would basically be resting on the slab. To prevent it from kicking out, I would make the wall thicker on that side and tie that stud back into the stud on the other side of the vent with braces around the vent pipe. Or could I just replace the whole stud with a single PT piece? If I use 3/4" wood moulding, can this somehow be considered a jack?


2x6 wall: This wall is also a non-loading bearing, an extension of the laundry room wall. This one we want as wide as possible to be able to get furniture back and forth as this would be the new key opening seperating two parts of the house. In this case, I would have no jack studs. I guess I could just leave it an almost 10' opening so no header is neede but I only wanted an 8' opening so I basically was going to build a box and glue/nail in place to bring the height down to 8'.

The top plate is only about 18" above the headers in both cases.

Thanks!!!
 
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  #2  
Old 08-21-07, 07:04 PM
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Your openings needing headers need jack studs to hold the headers vertically. Headers can't be toenailed.
 
  #3  
Old 08-22-07, 01:07 PM
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Could 1" thick wood moulding be considered a jack? Is this what's called a finishing stud?

What about box headers? Could I just attach an upright 2x6 to the front of the opening that spans from outside edge of king to the other kings outside edge and tie the header in that way? Bottom of 2x6 would be even with bottom of header. This would be sticking out from the wall now but I could just wrap this in nice trim.
 
  #4  
Old 08-24-07, 07:45 AM
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Patty,

Simpson makes a hanger for what your talking about. You don't need trimmers as long as this hanger is designed and can hold up what you have it will work. You need to get an Architect or Engineer first if you want to go this route to use these.

http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/hh.html
 
  #5  
Old 08-26-07, 04:36 PM
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What confuses me is that this is NOT a load bearing wall, so does the jack rule still apply? I removed some drywall and found that an existing opening did not have any jacks either. It was just a header from king to king with an arched plywood face beneath the header to frame the arched opening.

The only thing it will be holding up is itself and the drywall above it?
 
  #6  
Old 08-26-07, 05:56 PM
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As mentioned before, you need jack studs on each side of an opening, and a header over the top of the opening. You have said that another opening with no jack studs. This was not built properly. There you have it. Have a good day.
 
  #7  
Old 08-27-07, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by pattyweb View Post
What confuses me is that this is NOT a load bearing wall, so does the jack rule still apply? I removed some drywall and found that an existing opening did not have any jacks either. It was just a header from king to king with an arched plywood face beneath the header to frame the arched opening.

The only thing it will be holding up is itself and the drywall above it?
Patty,

If you are 100% sure that this is a non load bearing interior wall, then you you don't even need a header or jacks, you can frame them with 2x4's. Since they put a header in without any jacks, it might be a bearing wall and they didn't put jacks in which is wrong. If this is the case and you don't have the room for jacks, you can see if you can use the hangers in the link I showed you from Simpson.

You should have it checked first from an Architect or Engineer to see if you can use them. If not you have to put jacks in. If the opening is bearing and putting jacks in makes it to small for you, then you have to put a bigger header in with jacks.
 
  #8  
Old 08-28-07, 06:36 AM
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I've had three people come by (framers) and all of them have said none of them aret load bearing and that my pre-built trusses are spanning from the front block wall to the back block wall (the norm here in fl?). The walls in question have either NO top plate (studs attached to side of truss) or a single top plate. In the single top plate case, the top plate is 1.5" below the truss (obvisouly the wall was built and then tilted up) with just some small blocking to hold it in place. The other walls are parallel to the trusses and not even beneath a truss, running parallel between trusses with just some bracing to keep them in place.
 
  #9  
Old 08-28-07, 06:57 AM
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BTW, thanks about the bracket idea and I looked up those hanger brackets but there was a note that they needed to be attached to at least 3" thick material which would basically be a king and jack put together.
 
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