Sagging beam holding garage door openers


Old 10-26-07, 01:03 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 118
Question Sagging beam holding garage door openers

I have a 24 ft. by 24 ft. free standing garage with no internal columns. A free floating 2 by 8 by 24 ft. beam was used to support the garage door openers. It provides no structural support. It was nailed to a few beams above it to keep it more or less vertical, but it goes across the whole garage but is not nailed to the rafters. It is now sagging about one and three quarters inch in the center. I just installed a support column and am slowly extending it to get the beam horizontal. I want to keep the whole span of the garage open, but I do not want this beam with the garage door openers to fail and fall into the cars.

Since the garage door openers are the only added weight on this beam, what do I do to properly support it so I can remove the center support beam? The rafters above are exposed, so can I use cables to support the beam to the rafters? What is a simple solution?
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Old 10-26-07, 04:19 PM
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 37
What is the measurement from the middle of the top plates down to the bottom of the header,you could put LVLs in and maybe add a flitch plate and bolts,it would be quite a job but you could cut away the header and any studs above and one top plate(the bottom plate)of the two making room for a larger header.Take that measurement to your lumber yard or just call them for what sizing they have available in LVL... don`t forget your whole roof would need to be supported across the front wall, while this work is being done.(build 3 sets of ``A ``frames and put a temp header above them , might not hurt to run a string also to check for straitness)providing that you have ceiling joists tying the front wall to the back wall other wise, additional wall bracing may be needed across the front wall, oh and also the doors disconnected from the front wall
Old 10-27-07, 06:54 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Southern ILLINOIS
Posts: 944
Richard, are we talking over the door when closed or 8 or 9 feet out from there where the opener hangs? I think you mean 8 or 9 feet out in almost the middle of the garage. Therefore I think you need to add bracing to the 2x8. Screw some 2x4 material to the 2x8 so that you imagine the 2x8 is drywall and the 2x4's are studs. Put the screws in from the 2x8 (imagined drywall) into the 2x4 Use at least 2 1/2 inch screws. 3 inch would be better. I hope I made it clear that the 2x4's will be edge to 2x8 not flat on it. Small edge (1 1/2 inch) against the 2x8. Then you could attatch more 2x4 to this to the rafters or you could try the cables.
Really though where did you get a 24 foot 2x8 ? Is it one long board or is it spliced?
Old 10-27-07, 07:23 AM
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 2
Face lift for your sag.

First of all, the single plate is not enough structure. You are started in the right direction. Using the post jack, turn the nut to raise the support. You may need a couple of days to get the belly out. Now you will need several pieces of 1/2" CDX plywood and another 24' 2 X 8, some construction adhesive, 1 1/4 screws and 3/8" x 3" lag screws. Make sure you cut the plywood 7" X 48". Don't be tempted to rip 8' pieces and cut them in half. Cut the ply wood the short way. Also, go to a lumber yard where you can select your next 2 X 8. Y one sideou want to select a board that has a good high crown running down the 2" edge on one side. Hold up one edge and just look down it. the board should look straight and a nice upward curve in the middle. (remember, if it looks like it has a belly in the middle, flip it over). Now look at each end of the door opening. Is there enough room on top of the plate to hold an additional 1 1/2" of wood material? If not, you may have to sister another stud alongside of the other studs to increase the size of the landing pad.
Once your material is ready, lets get started. Apply construction adhesive to one side of the plywood and press it in place against the existing 2 X 8 and screw it in place with the 1 1/4 screws. Work from both ends into the middle, leave a gap of an inch or so between the pieces of plywood. Cut the last piece or pieces as necessary to make them fit. Once the plywood is in place, now apply construction adhesive to the pieces of plywood you just hung. Now set the 2 X 8 up on the pads on each end with the crowning side up(VERY IMPORTANT, drive it into place if necessary. Now, using the 3/8 X 3 lag screws and bolt the sandwich together,2" off any edge one high one low a foot apart. Once finished, slowly lower the post jack. The sag should be gone, check the garge door for proper operation, call a reputable company to make any adjustments. Also, remember that if the garage door opener is attached to the header, that you need to take that down first.
Old 10-27-07, 11:39 AM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 118
Unionlabel, I understand; it seems simple

I understand your suggestion. If the 2 by 8 beam has a bit of twist, i.e. when I look down one end I see the sag and also a turning to the left after the mid-point, then I presume once the lag screws are used we would get a good bonding between the new 2 by 8 and the old 2 by 8. The objective of course is to secure the old 2 by 8 so it does not crack or buckle and fall.

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