Continuous sill and top plates?
#1
12-20-08, 12:15 PM
Continuous sill and top plates?
Is there any reason sill plates and double top plates on 2x6 wall framing should be continuous (like building codes)? If not, should the top plates be overlapped, and by how much?
Thanks and happy holidays!
Thanks and happy holidays!
#2
12-20-08, 06:56 PM
They can be continuous only as long as the wood is long. You have to break it somewhere. Are you talking about overlapping wall intersections?
#3
12-21-08, 04:45 AM
As Chandler says, you can't have a continuos plate if the wall is really long. When I was framing we always overlapped the top plate over the lower plate by at least 3'. We also overlapped the plates on exterior wall intersections. We did not overlap the plates at any interior or interior to exterior wall intersections.
#4
12-21-08, 05:18 AM
I've noticed that in some cases (floor frames I think?) there are specific rules about overlap when you have to make a joint, so I was just checking with you guys on the plates. This is my first major framing experience - just afraid of making a dumb mistake that will mess up the inspection.
The main issue is on a wall where I could buy long vs short, is there a reason to buy longer to have fewer breaks? For example, 16' 2x's would have to be delivered. 10' I can carry in my truck.
I'll plan on 3' overlap on breaks for the double top plate.
The main issue is on a wall where I could buy long vs short, is there a reason to buy longer to have fewer breaks? For example, 16' 2x's would have to be delivered. 10' I can carry in my truck.
I'll plan on 3' overlap on breaks for the double top plate.
#5
12-21-08, 07:30 AM
10' is fine. Since you will be offsetting them by 3', the two plates will keep each other in line. One difference, I overlap the top plate at wall intersections; wall top plate extends over the bottom plate of the wall. Seems to give a tie and tier effect.
#6
01-17-09, 11:41 AM
A related question: I'm reading that top plate joints should be directly above a stud. But the walls I'm framing (closing in a freestanding carport) are not supporting walls. Also the studs are attached to the double top plate with (Simpson SPH6) stud plate ties, straps that go over the double top plate and are nailed to both sides of the 2x6 stud (the double top plate is first nailed to an existing header/beam).
In this case, to me it seems like I would want to avoid joints at the studs because the plates are not nailed directly to the studs. Otherwise the plate ties would straddle a joint. Am I thinking about this right?
In this case, to me it seems like I would want to avoid joints at the studs because the plates are not nailed directly to the studs. Otherwise the plate ties would straddle a joint. Am I thinking about this right?
#7
01-17-09, 06:40 PM
Whenever you have a support meeting a plate, the joint of the plate should meet over that vertical support, and sometimes we usually double the studs at that point. The reason for this is to keep the bottom wood of the top plate combination from sagging. It is highly unlikely you will have that problem, and bearing no weight it should be ok. Make sure you nail the joint well to the top part of the plate assembly.
