Header attachment

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Old 01-19-09, 05:45 AM
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Header attachment

I have plenty of diagrams of different solid headers, but how are solid window and door headers attached to the framing and top plate? Are they nailed through the 2xs and top plate? What about a header under an existing double top plate does it need to be nailed to the top plate?
 
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Old 01-19-09, 01:30 PM
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Look at this for an idea.
Building a Wall 3 - Three Stud Corner and Windows | DoItYourself.com
Generally the header is not nailed through or to the top plates.
 
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Old 01-19-09, 02:55 PM
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Headers transfer their weight to the jack studs they are sitting on. You can and usually do just nail them to the bottom member of the top plate, but that is just to keep it upright
 
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Old 01-19-09, 06:23 PM
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No tie to the top plate, even for an 8-ft garage door header? 2x6s nailed to make vertical But then I haven't known Chandler to be wrong! Just expressing

Thanks for the tip, badeyeben - like other sources, no mention of tying in to the top plate . . .

By the way, does anyone know if the spec'd height of a rollup garage door is critical, or if it can be a couple of inches shorter?
 
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Old 01-20-09, 03:31 AM
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If you crown the header right, you won't need to fasten it, but it just gives a warm and fuzzy knowing it won't tip out. You will be applying pressure via the jack studs and the building will be pushing down, so it won't be going anywhere. You will want your header for an 8' garage door to extend 1' over each side, so using a 10' header would be in order. That way you will have two sets of jack studs....one on the end of the header, and the other "adjustable" to your finished opening.
Oops, misread your post....you were referring to "height". It will be critical as far as the closure of the door. The door will "hit" the trim board on its final fall in order to create a seal. It would be best to refer to the door's specs. Having it a couple of inches shorter is better than higher, obviously, but it won't look symmetrical from the outside.
 
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Old 01-20-09, 06:24 PM
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Thanks but now I'm now a little confused - 1 foot on each side? I was thinking there would either be just one trimmer stud on each side or a header hanger like Simpson HH6. See my other thread, http://forum.doityourself.com/framin...or-header.html

which now that I read it over, never really got finalized.

Each garage door will have a short (less than 2 feet) section of new framed wall on one side and an existing 6x6 post on the other, so extending the header out a foot isn't possible, which is why I asked about the header hangers. On the framed side there could be as many studs as want, but on other openings the architect has them going up to the double top plate except for a trimmer; I guess more than one on the framed side could be trimmers, but I would have to narrow the door to have even one trimmer stud on the post side.

The architect just said to ""Frame down existing header" over the garage doors without details, so I'm trying to figure out solution to do this The walls will have new framing down to a new 9" curb under a new double top plate attached to the existing header (beam).

Plywood siding on the outside and 2x6 PT frame on the inside for the door tracks will hold the header vertical, so that's not my concern. The wall isn't load bearing (it's currently a freestanding carport on 6x6 posts) but it will have a big garage door attached to it. It's just hard for me to visualize this 6" thick by about 6" high header just sitting on top of one or even several 2x6 studs, without any tie to the top plate and just a few nails holding it on to the studs! Am I being paranoid, or is this just one of those mysteries of engineering that works but doesn't seem like it should?
 
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