Header load
#1
01-23-09, 02:04 PM
Header load
How can I calculate the load of a header on its supporting trimmer studs or connectors? This is a non-load bearing wall being framed in on an existing freestanding carport and the header is over an 8 foot wide garage door.
Is it just the weight of the header I need to estimate? If so, how can I determine the weight without dragging out the bathroom scale?
Is it just the weight of the header I need to estimate? If so, how can I determine the weight without dragging out the bathroom scale?
#2
01-23-09, 02:29 PM
Headers for the most part are overkill, but necessary to take into account the unexpected. For your application, you can use a lamination of 2x8's (2 + 1/2" plywood sandwich for a 2x4 wall), since you have no weight above to take into consideration, and the 2x8's will make the 10' span you need. Don't forget to overlay the header on your jacks for good end support.
#3
01-29-09, 09:55 PM
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taking into account that a 2x8 will free span over 12' and how much room you have to work with above the door I would do a 2x6 header with 1/2" ply wood glued and nailed between and depending on local codes you may have to run it the width of the structure and just frame in for the desired door width
#4
01-30-09, 02:38 AM
Thanks for your responses. I seem to be a variety of opinions on this, so I guess I'll have to talk to the building code office, because it seems like the architect dropped the ball. In the plans the architect just said, "Frame down existing header to garage door height". By "existing header" he meant the double 2x12 beam that supports the roof.
Looking at load tables and header diagrams, what I'm seeing is yes, that a triple 2x6 header will span the 8 feet easily. But I am finding nothing in the references I've seen about having one-foot header extension on either side of the door frame or running the header the width of the structure. Headers, except for really long ones, usually just end at the trimmer studs. What I'm trying to get at in my questions about the door is, how many trimmer studs do I need and more importantly, is this an engineering problem or can I just frame down to the door height using the header and/or cripples, and how can I determine if I can use a header hanger instead of trimmer studs?
However, I plan it out, I'd like to have the tables and numbers to back me up when I show it to the inspector.
Looking at load tables and header diagrams, what I'm seeing is yes, that a triple 2x6 header will span the 8 feet easily. But I am finding nothing in the references I've seen about having one-foot header extension on either side of the door frame or running the header the width of the structure. Headers, except for really long ones, usually just end at the trimmer studs. What I'm trying to get at in my questions about the door is, how many trimmer studs do I need and more importantly, is this an engineering problem or can I just frame down to the door height using the header and/or cripples, and how can I determine if I can use a header hanger instead of trimmer studs?
However, I plan it out, I'd like to have the tables and numbers to back me up when I show it to the inspector.
#5
01-30-09, 02:42 AM
This is an existing freestanding pole-barn carport supported by 6x6 posts every 10 feet. Each garage door will have a short section of new framed wall on one side (less than two feet, to bring the jamb in from the post on that side) and a 6x6 post on the other side.
#6
01-30-09, 06:42 AM
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yes you can fir down your existing header with whatever you want as long as you put studs from existing header to new 2x material to keep it tight to existing header....as long as nothing rest on or hangs from the new material
#7
01-30-09, 03:56 PM
Yes, you just hit on what's been bugging me about some of the responses to this and other threads. Nothing is hanging on or from the new header. The garage door tracks will be mounted to the 2x6 bucks that will be mounted on the interior to the wall framing on one side and the post on the other side, so the wall and post support the garage door. The roof is supported by the existing header.
I spoke to a building inspector today and he said the same thing. No need for one-foot extensions, and header hangers or single trimmer studs are fine to support the header.
Thanks for your help!
I spoke to a building inspector today and he said the same thing. No need for one-foot extensions, and header hangers or single trimmer studs are fine to support the header.
Thanks for your help!
#8
02-07-09, 09:02 AM
To go back to my original question, I'd like to use a solid (built-up) header made of 2x6s and plywood because I have to attach a 2x6 buck frame all around the inside of the garage door frame for the tracks. How do I determine the load of this header? Do I need more than one trimmer stud, and can I use the Simpson HH6 Header Hanger instead of trimmer studs? The allowable loads for this hanger are listed at HH Header Hangers
