Furring out concrete wall

Reply

  #1  
Old 03-02-09, 08:34 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,453
Furring out concrete wall

I have a 4" thick concrete block wall between my utility room and garage.

Due to new plumbing (washing machine, laundry sink) and an adjacent half bath, I have two 2" PVC vent lines that runs up the concrete wall.

I do not want to chip out a vertical section of this concrete wall to recessed the vents. Furthermore, there are some 3/4" copper supply lines that run horizontally, going behind (I did chip out the walls there) where they meet the 2" vents.

So I decided I will furr out the wall by using 2x3 studs spaced 16" apart - thinking 2x3 is about 2-1/2" wide, and the 2" vents are 2" diameter "nominally" which is actually bigger than 2".

But how do I attach the 2x3 studs "depth wise" to the concrete wall? I cannot use 5" Tapcons and it might split the wood. Do I need to use some special Simpson brackets or angles?
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 03-02-09, 08:53 AM
Gunguy45's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 20,982
I'm sure an expert will reply...but my answer would be...you don't attach it to the block.

Just frame up a wall with top and bottom plates and attach it at the floor, ceiling and sides. Then you are only dealing with the 1 1/2" thickness. Be great if your rafters are running perpindicular to the block wall, just screw or nail your top plate into them. You could always put some shims/adhesive behind the studs if you really want them to be more rigid, but prob not required if your plates are set right.

Just a DIY'er here, but thats what I'd do.
 
  #3  
Old 03-02-09, 09:07 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,453
The problem is there are existing furring strips (1/2") on the old wall. So I was thinking this is "additional furring" but in reality is a new wall...

OK this may work, but I am still going to have to attach the top plate to the concrete wall as the roof joist runs paralle there and lots of rigid EMT conduits overhead in the attic.
 
  #4  
Old 03-02-09, 10:18 PM
Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 8
Another way to secure the top plate of the wood frame wall is to go to a steel stud and sheetrock supplier and buy some L-metal. They make different sizes, from 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 inch to 3 x 3 inch. You secure the L-metal to the concrete at the height of framed wall. Then you can use 2" screws to secure the top plate to the L-metal.
 
  #5  
Old 03-05-09, 06:35 AM
Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 1
I'd go with Gunguy - Frame out a new wall - I'd also set it about an inch from the existing concrete. This would give you a smooth, plumb wall to put sheetrock on, and plenty of room for vents, electrical, whatever you wanted to add.
Remember, concrete is porous, and can wick water up from the ground. So if you go against the concrete wall, and especially when you lay thte bottom plate, either put a moisture barrier under it, or use pressure-treated (I do both).

Good Luck
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes