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Furring out concrete wall

MiamiCuse's Avatar

Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,433

03-02-09, 08:34 AM   #1  
Furring out concrete wall

I have a 4" thick concrete block wall between my utility room and garage.

Due to new plumbing (washing machine, laundry sink) and an adjacent half bath, I have two 2" PVC vent lines that runs up the concrete wall.

I do not want to chip out a vertical section of this concrete wall to recessed the vents. Furthermore, there are some 3/4" copper supply lines that run horizontally, going behind (I did chip out the walls there) where they meet the 2" vents.

So I decided I will furr out the wall by using 2x3 studs spaced 16" apart - thinking 2x3 is about 2-1/2" wide, and the 2" vents are 2" diameter "nominally" which is actually bigger than 2".

But how do I attach the 2x3 studs "depth wise" to the concrete wall? I cannot use 5" Tapcons and it might split the wood. Do I need to use some special Simpson brackets or angles?

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Gunguy45's Avatar
Super Moderator

Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 20,662

03-02-09, 08:53 AM   #2  
I'm sure an expert will reply...but my answer would be...you don't attach it to the block.

Just frame up a wall with top and bottom plates and attach it at the floor, ceiling and sides. Then you are only dealing with the 1 1/2" thickness. Be great if your rafters are running perpindicular to the block wall, just screw or nail your top plate into them. You could always put some shims/adhesive behind the studs if you really want them to be more rigid, but prob not required if your plates are set right.

Just a DIY'er here, but thats what I'd do.

"I sometimes wonder how some people ever made it to adulthood..."

MiamiCuse's Avatar

Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,433

03-02-09, 09:07 AM   #3  
The problem is there are existing furring strips (1/2") on the old wall. So I was thinking this is "additional furring" but in reality is a new wall...

OK this may work, but I am still going to have to attach the top plate to the concrete wall as the roof joist runs paralle there and lots of rigid EMT conduits overhead in the attic.

dgwood7's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 8

03-02-09, 10:18 PM   #4  
Another way to secure the top plate of the wood frame wall is to go to a steel stud and sheetrock supplier and buy some L-metal. They make different sizes, from 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 inch to 3 x 3 inch. You secure the L-metal to the concrete at the height of framed wall. Then you can use 2" screws to secure the top plate to the L-metal.

dugman's Avatar

Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 1

03-05-09, 06:35 AM   #5  
I'd go with Gunguy - Frame out a new wall - I'd also set it about an inch from the existing concrete. This would give you a smooth, plumb wall to put sheetrock on, and plenty of room for vents, electrical, whatever you wanted to add.
Remember, concrete is porous, and can wick water up from the ground. So if you go against the concrete wall, and especially when you lay thte bottom plate, either put a moisture barrier under it, or use pressure-treated (I do both).

Good Luck

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