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Building Yard Shed


seanq's Avatar
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Posts: 43

05-23-09, 07:20 AM   #1  
Building Yard Shed

Hello,

I will be hiring a carpenter to build a 12 x 12 wooden shed for me. Here is what I prepared in terms of specs;

front extended peak roof with 12" overhang
16" O.C. framing with quality Doug Fir lumber
2x6 pressure treated floor joists 16 O.C.
7' walls
pressure treated 3/4" plywood floor 16" O.C.
66" wide double door with a keyed lock entry
four windows with screens
pair of gable vents
ramp
ample shelving
work bench
storage loft
shed set on solid concrete blocks
tan/brown roof shingles to match house
cedar shake shingles

The one question that I have is in terms of ceiling joists should I go with 2x6 joists or 2x4? The carpenter suggested 2x4 and said that 2x6 won't be necessary. Just want to be sure he's on point. Any other suggestions are welcome. Thanks

Sean

 
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Wirepuller38's Avatar
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05-23-09, 12:10 PM   #2  
Shed

If you plan to store items in the loft, go with 2x6's.
What size windows?
Will you get materials, or will that be part of the carpenter's job?

 
GBR in WA's Avatar
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05-23-09, 12:19 PM   #3  
rafter spacing, material....tail over hang.....exposed o.h. matrl...........all lumber d.f., unless noted otherwise......door swing in or out?......windows open or fixed?......size of gable vents.........roof pitch........dimensions (D) of ramp.......(D) of workbench .....(D) of shelves......(D) of loft.....(D) of conc. blocks......(D) of shingles.....15 or 30 year?.....roof tar paper......shingles apply where?......ply on walls>>> thick?, X-glue.........Flash and tape wind. and door........header details.....roof ply 1/2, type......nails used, size type,and where?... barge rafter matrl.... rake matrl. Level the floor and plumb the walls. Prob. more, in hurry. Be safe, G

 
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05-23-09, 12:56 PM   #4  
I know it is "just a shed", but unless you are providing midspan suppport, 2x6 lumber may be too narrow to handle the possible loads you will be putting in there. Use the 2x6's, just plan on more support midspan.

 
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05-23-09, 03:35 PM   #5  
Before doing anything make sure that you can legally build this shed. If you live in an area with restrictive covenants (i.e. a homeowner's association) it is quite likely the HOA will have very specific rules on how large and where you may build this and if you can build it at all.

Even if you don't have a HOA your local building department may have rules you must obey. If you don't obey the rules you may be forced to tear it down.

 
seanq's Avatar
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05-24-09, 04:17 AM   #6  
Building Yard Shed....

Thanks to all for responding - appreciate it.

Furd - I plan on filing a permit with my local town here un NY for the shed construction. I don't want any surprises.

Wirepuller - The carpenter will purchase the materials and the windows will be 36" that open.

GBR - In reading your response I realize I have lot's to do in terms of the details. And here I was thinking I had a pretty good list of specs. I'd like to folllow-up if if you don't mind as there are some things I'm not familiar with being a newbie.

What is tail overhang and exposed o.h material?

What is your recommendation for rafter spacing/material?

What is your recommendation for dimesnions of plywood on walls?

What type of plywood shold I use for the roof sheathing?

What is X-glue?

Header details?

What kind of nails do you recommend?

Sorry for the basic questions but I have not done this before and am not familiar with most carpentry terminolgy. Am I on the right track here? If you were buildng the shed for yourself how would you attack it?

Thanks G

Sean






rafter spacing, material....tail over hang.....exposed o.h. matrl...........all lumber d.f., unless noted otherwise......door swing in or out?......windows open or fixed?......size of gable vents.........roof pitch........dimensions (D) of ramp.......(D) of workbench .....(D) of shelves......(D) of loft.....(D) of conc. blocks......(D) of shingles.....15 or 30 year?.....roof tar paper......shingles apply where?......ply on walls>>> thick?, X-glue.........Flash and tape wind. and door........header details.....roof ply 1/2, type......nails used, size type,and where?... barge rafter matrl.... rake matrl. Level the floor and plumb the walls. Prob. more, in hurry. Be safe, G

 
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05-24-09, 01:13 PM   #7  
What is tail overhang and exposed o.h material? The rafter tails past the building, 12" -16"-18"-24".

What is your recommendation for rafter spacing/material? 24" spacing w. 2x6 rafters doug.fir

What is your recommendation for dimesnions of plywood on walls? 1/2" CDX or 7/16"osb

What type of plywood shold I use for the roof sheathing? 7/16" osb or cdx ply

What is X-glue? exterior glue rated for exterior use ply

Header details? double 2x6, on edge nailed together 2-10d at 12"o.c. (on center) w. 1/2"ply sandwitched

What kind of nails do you recommend? all galvanized, hot dipped- 8d for sheathing, sheeting, and decking. 10d for framing.

There are many web sites and even videos to learn from. Be safe, G

 
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05-24-09, 07:07 PM   #8  
Thank's much G for your feedback. Appreciate it.

Sean

 
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05-25-09, 08:53 PM   #9  
You are welcome, any other questions, as we are here for you? Feel free to ask, as the answers are also free! Be safe, G

 
seanq's Avatar
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05-27-09, 06:16 PM   #10  
Quick follow-up G. In your professional opinion what is the major difference in construction between a shed that a carpenter builds from scratch and a good quality shed that I can buy from a reputable lumberyard that is well-made? I guess what I am trying to figure out is for about the same price a carpenter will charge me to build the shed I can buy one for a little < $. At the end of the day is it worth it to hire a carpenter to construct it? Thx much

S

 
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05-27-09, 07:23 PM   #11  
Building Yard Shed

Check your local requirements before you get too far.

In many areas, once you go over the "magical" number (100 or 120 sf) you are required to build according to codes and inspections. My son's area had the 120 sf limit and he found it better to limit the floor space (since it was for storage and not a shop) to 120 sf (10x12) and he could build it with 10' high walls and put it where wanted within reason.

He was able to tuck it in behind the attached garage and alongside the house. Even though there were minimal foundation requirements he went with a 6" reinforced floating slab because it was better to use more concrete because of the minimum delivery requirements. He used 2x6 joists and either bought some short 10' span trusses or framed the room (no big difference). It is amazing what the extra height does at little cost when it comes to storage. Now there is roon for both the riding mower and the snoblower, but still have access to the lighter tools that are hung fron the walls.

He now has a shed with a lot of room because everything in hung and above the floor. He put the usual cheap vinyl siding on to match the house and made the roof pitch to match.

Legally or illegally, he added an underground power supply (deep was easy because of the soil) in an afternoon to provide recharging power and a light.

It is functional, looks great and works for his home and situation. At least he was able to tuck it in and get the maximum volume and noy clutter up the yard where the 3 boys rule.

Just different perspective.

Dick

 
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05-27-09, 08:22 PM   #12  
Thanks for sharing your perspective Dick, appreciate it. The wife just picked up the permit application fom the town yesterday - they want a $615 fee to file the building permit. Absolutely incredible... for the most part I don't even think they're too concerned with sheds - they just want the revenue that comes fom the app fees. Still assessing estimates from carpenters and comparing to the sheds sold locally. Will pull the trigger soon either way. Thanks again

S

 
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