Joist hanger nail sizes
#1
06-02-09, 11:51 PM
Joist hanger nail sizes
I was looking at the Simpson Strong Tie site and specifically at the 2x10 double hanger (LSU210-2 I think it was.) They specify all 16d common nails for that one. I don't understand how that can be since a 2x10 is only 1.5 inches wide and 2 of them are 3 inches, and a 16d common is 3.5 inches long. What am I missing?
#2
06-03-09, 05:12 AM
Jeff, 16d indicates the thickness of the shaft of the nail. Use the 1 1/2" hot dipped galvanized nails for face nailing the hanger to the 2x10, then 2 1/2" hot dipped galvanized nails for angle nailing through the holes connecting the joist to the rim board. They will cross and won't protrude past the 2x10. Don't use the 1 1/2" nails on the angle holes, as they are not going to give any holding power. These nails are located in the joist hanger section of your store.
Larry
Larry
#3
06-03-09, 06:50 AM
Their catalog is pretty specific about the nails specified, and that doesn't seem to be what they say. The list the smaller nail size and length where appropriate. But for these it's specifically all 16d (full length implied.)
I'm looking at the DBL 2x10, LUS210-2 line.
http://www.strongtie.com/ftp/catalog...-p062-p064.pdf
The nails are shown here
Nails
I'm looking at the DBL 2x10, LUS210-2 line.
http://www.strongtie.com/ftp/catalog...-p062-p064.pdf
The nails are shown here
Nails
#4
06-03-09, 12:00 PM
Hi Jeff. The Simpson book is very specific about nail substitutions. When using 1-1/2" nails instead of 3-1/2" nails, you have to adjust the load:
Nails
The "d" in nails is for: The origin of some Nail Names
A 10d and a 16d sinker have the same shaft diameter, but different length. Generally, it pertains to the length of nail.
The nails specified by Simpson for the double hanger are 8-16d into header and 6-16d into joist.
LUS/HUS Double Shear Joist Hangers
You can substitute an N16....2-1/2" x 0.162 thick for the 16d, but only on the header, not the joist.
You cannot use a 1-1/2" teco nail for this hanger. Not a .131, .141, or .148.
!-1/2" tecos always take an adjustment of .64, .77, or .86 off the loads.
Be safe, G
Nails
The "d" in nails is for: The origin of some Nail Names
A 10d and a 16d sinker have the same shaft diameter, but different length. Generally, it pertains to the length of nail.
The nails specified by Simpson for the double hanger are 8-16d into header and 6-16d into joist.
LUS/HUS Double Shear Joist Hangers
You can substitute an N16....2-1/2" x 0.162 thick for the 16d, but only on the header, not the joist.
You cannot use a 1-1/2" teco nail for this hanger. Not a .131, .141, or .148.
!-1/2" tecos always take an adjustment of .64, .77, or .86 off the loads.
Be safe, G
#5
06-03-09, 05:06 PM
Hi G,
I understand the notes about nail substitutions, but they are exactly that - *substitutions* for the primary recommendation. So my question is, why are they recommending nails that don't seem to fit?
It could be that I don't understand where these nails are going, but I don't think so.
I understand the notes about nail substitutions, but they are exactly that - *substitutions* for the primary recommendation. So my question is, why are they recommending nails that don't seem to fit?
It could be that I don't understand where these nails are going, but I don't think so.
#6
06-03-09, 05:23 PM
ok...gotta weigh in..though I'm no Pro of any sort. Jeff you notice on the chart you first linked to..they say "header"? Headers are normally 2x lumber plus 1/2 ply...so the nails wouldn't show. Even if it was something like a rim board..thats normally hidden.
And the cross driven nails holding the joist wouldn't show.
I think they are also looking at max holding power which means the point of the nail barely penetrates the other side..max contact..max hold.
JMO
And the cross driven nails holding the joist wouldn't show.
I think they are also looking at max holding power which means the point of the nail barely penetrates the other side..max contact..max hold.
JMO
#7
06-03-09, 05:34 PM
The LUS210-2 line gives you the option of 6-16D. It in no way states you have to use a 16D nail, and the length is not to be implied if it is not stated. Use the joist hanger nails sold for that purpose and I think you will be happy. You are transferring weight with every joist you install.
Decks have been built for a long time with this method and I would think we would have heard of problems if there were any.
Decks have been built for a long time with this method and I would think we would have heard of problems if there were any.
#8
06-03-09, 06:23 PM
Jeff, 16d nails or N16 nails have to be used with that hanger.
Look down the left column for it, now go across. 8-16d and 6-16d, means no 1-1/2" material (single) for a header, has to be 3" thick.
Face Mount Hangers Load Table for Solid-Sawn Lumber (Douglas Fir&Southern Pine)
Look at the single joist hanger above yours, you can use 1-1/2"teco's (if 0.148 thick).
You cannot carry 2-2x10 in that hanger with 1-1/2" nails.
This has been like this for over 15 years, yet some installers are not aware of it.
Follow the table across to floor joists , notice the solid line at 10d nails, no can do.
Be safe, G
Look down the left column for it, now go across. 8-16d and 6-16d, means no 1-1/2" material (single) for a header, has to be 3" thick.
Face Mount Hangers Load Table for Solid-Sawn Lumber (Douglas Fir&Southern Pine)
Look at the single joist hanger above yours, you can use 1-1/2"teco's (if 0.148 thick).
You cannot carry 2-2x10 in that hanger with 1-1/2" nails.
This has been like this for over 15 years, yet some installers are not aware of it.
Follow the table across to floor joists , notice the solid line at 10d nails, no can do.
Be safe, G
#9
06-03-09, 06:37 PM
Chandler, could you tell me how to post my directions to the hanger tables so others may find them easier, please? I have enough trouble typing, let alone working the site. LOL
Google: Simpson
Cick: DIY projects
Click: Joist hangers
Click: LUS
Click: Hanger tables (very first one)
Click: solid sawn, Doug. Fir (first one)
It's like they buryed the tables in their acres of info.
Be safe, G
Google: Simpson
Cick: DIY projects
Click: Joist hangers
Click: LUS
Click: Hanger tables (very first one)
Click: solid sawn, Doug. Fir (first one)
It's like they buryed the tables in their acres of info.
Be safe, G
#10
06-03-09, 07:31 PM
I got to it, and just copied and pasted the url here Face Mount Hangers Load Table for Solid-Sawn Lumber (Douglas Fir&Southern Pine)
Not sure if that is what you are looking for. Let me know.
Not sure if that is what you are looking for. Let me know.
#12
11-18-09, 07:40 AM
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The only thing missing is factoring in load reduction for the shorter nails. I can't recall which charts I saw them on but there are load reduction calculations in the fine print. Otherwise, every deck built utilizing joist hangers without a "beam" as a ledger would be trouble.
#13
11-18-09, 08:34 PM
It is in footnote #7, after the first table: http://www.strongtie.com/products/co...ace_ss-df1.asp
Be safe, Gary
Be safe, Gary
My question, simply, is how would you go about bracing that middle point so that the wall can be removed safely? Any tips, tricks, or links to threads I may have missed while searching would certainly be appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Tony