Old Sagging Garage Part 1

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  #1  
Old 06-21-09, 06:19 PM
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Old Sagging Garage Part 1

I have a 55 year old 20x20, low slope, detached garage with several sagging problems.
First is the support of the roof by two 2x10s running length-wise that support the 2x6 cross sections (16" oc) that hold up the 1x10s ("floor" of the roof).
The 2x10s at the back are down some (supported by a notch in 2 2x4s that have sunk a little) and the 2x10s have pulled away from supporting all the 2x6s esp. in the center, about 1/4" gap.
I would like support at the end of the 2x10s, but because of the low slope, they are at an angle, and the cement floor also has a slope for water drainage. I don't know how a jack post can accomodate these slopes, and it would be good to put a post near the center of the 2x10s for support in the center.

How to install post support with a floor that slopes and the beams sloping?

Thanks
 
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Old 06-21-09, 07:49 PM
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Could you please post a picture? Be safe, G
 
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Old 06-22-09, 07:48 PM
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You could make wedges that go on top and bottom of the post to make it fit level and plumb. Depends on how much slope you have what size wedge you need to make.
Might be a little more difficult on the center one as you are probably wanting to screw it up a little to level the beam and make the gaps close up.
Be sure the post has plates with holes to allow you to screw or bolt the post to the floor and beam so it cannot move if hit.
Use a level and tape measure to determine what size shim or wedge you need. Hold the level against where you want the post. Make it read level and measure the gap wherever the post goes. If the post has a 4 inch plate then you would measure 4 inches out from where the level touches the floor or beam.
 
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Old 06-25-09, 05:57 PM
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photo attached

Here's a photo, just finished re-roofing.

Check out the 3 sorry 2x4s that support the beam.
We thought of wedges so the post could hit flat surfaces. The bottom one should be pretty hefty shouldn't it? like a big 4x6 hunk of wood post?

wait a minute... images need to be online and then link???
 
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Old 06-26-09, 03:30 PM
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Garage photo



HEre's the photo
 
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Old 06-26-09, 03:37 PM
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I'm surprised that those flool I-joists are still up. With the fire and the lack of good bearing studs. At least they look like I's not solid wood. Is there a 2x4 at the top and bottom with osb plywood in the web center? Be safe, G
 
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Old 06-26-09, 07:58 PM
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I would make the wedges as thin as possible to allow the metal plates to contact as much as possible. If you could use metal for wedges it would be even better. Plus the wood against the floor will draw moisture from the wet floor in wet and snowy weather.
I first though fire damage too but now I think it might be dark stains from leaking roof and tar patching.
They look like solid lumber to me not lams.
 
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Old 06-27-09, 06:17 AM
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Garage notes

There may have been fire long ago but all the wood is dark from leaking roof and water down the back. Have new rollroofing and gutter up now.
The horiz 2x4 that runs across the top of the studs is sagging and doesn't even touch the giant beam. Only a few of the rafters touch the beam. The studs go down through the concrete floor and prob rest on a 2x8 that is on cement block around the perimeter of the garage.

So new jack post with metal wedge on bottom, should wedge be wide to disperse weight? and wood wedge ok for top.
Once up it should push studs up alittle and I should re-sister some of the nearby studs? And sisters can rest on cement in-between the studs?

A few notes added to photo.

Thanks for all your comments.

 
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Old 06-27-09, 10:16 AM
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The bottom wedge does not need to be any wider than the base of the jack post. Wood is fine for the top wedge.
Don't jack the beam higher than touching the 2x4 on top the studs. If there is still gap between beam and joists you have 2 choices. 1shim each joist that does not touch or 2 cut out the 2x4 on top the studs and continue the lifting with the post. Then secure the 2x4 you cut to the beam when it is where you want it. Lifting that 2x4 will only cause more work by the need to re-stud the walls and may mess up the siding as well.
If you do install any new studs use pressure treated wood. They can take a little moisture.
The 1x5 across the top of the wall is to allow screwing or nailing up a ceiling.
It looks like the bottom of those 2x4's in the wall rotted at one time and they repaired them by simply cutting them short and adding the new. Not a great repair but will work since the wall in not load bearing and the 2x4's are only holding the siding up.
 
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Old 06-27-09, 05:13 PM
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If the 1x5 is on edge, it may be taking the place of the end rafter as it is supported fully by the wall.

The 2x6's are over-spanned, hence the 2x10's added. The 2x10's are also over-spanned, hence the sag. Shim the ends up to touch the closest one to the end walls, add a post in the middle after nailing a scrap block on each end of beam. Pull a stringline taut on nails to see the amount of sag. Jack the middle, cut a new post on treated block tapconed to the slab, park the cars again. Be safe, G
 
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