Gap...ceiling joist and top pannel

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  #1  
Old 07-29-09, 10:13 PM
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Gap...ceiling joist and top pannel

Hey everyone, I'm new to this form and new to basement remodeling. My names Stefan, hello to everyone. So anyways after doing some research i came across this site and found that the tutorial listed tutorial was one of the simplest ways to frame my basement walls, compared to other methods(for example furring the walls) .

The tutorial says to build to the shortest - floor to ceiling joist height. I did that but now i'm left with a 1 1/2" gap between the joist and my top panel in certain areas.

Is this normal? Should I shim in between the gap with wedges and them screw through the top panel, wedge and then ceiling joist?

And i also have a concern with the distance my framing end up from the basement wall.

If i get any closer I no longer have contact with the ceiling joist. Is there a way around this?




Any help is appreciated, sorry if I am asking something simple, it's my first time framing a wall of any kind
 
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Old 07-30-09, 03:40 AM
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Stefan: Welcome to the forums! You should add a 2x4 to the gap to complete the top plate which should be 2 boards thick. As far as setting your wall back, you can add blocking between the joists at the same height as the bottom of the joists, then slide your wall back, fastening it to the blocking. The bottom plate looks to be pressure treated, just make sure it is.
Glad you asked the questions before you got it all tied in. You can at least make adjustments.
 
  #3  
Old 07-30-09, 09:20 AM
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As Chandler said with the blocking, 2' on center. One top plate is fine for all the added walls. I suggest 1" of foam board gluded to the concrete walls as per article. A 1" air space to the wall with unfaced glass batts with no vapor barrier or vapor retarder. A treated bottom plate on some poly sill sealer or 30# felt paper. Insulate the rim joist/exterior areas with pieces of the foam board and hold/seal edges with spray can foam, then unfaced glass batts.

BSD-012: Moisture Control for New Residential Buildings —

Insulate Basement Rim Joists | thefamilyhandyman.com | DIY Projects | Reader's Digest

Be safe, G
 
  #4  
Old 07-30-09, 09:56 AM
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Thanks for helping me out guys
Originally Posted by chandler View Post
Stefan: Welcome to the forums! You should add a 2x4 to the gap to complete the top plate which should be 2 boards thick. As far as setting your wall back, you can add blocking between the joists at the same height as the bottom of the joists, then slide your wall back, fastening it to the blocking. The bottom plate looks to be pressure treated, just make sure it is.
Glad you asked the questions before you got it all tied in. You can at least make adjustments.
Thanks for responding Chandler. I'll go ahead and add blocking between the joists and the wall. About adding another top plate, i think il take GBR's advice and stick with one. Another plate would be a tight fit and with hardwood flooring installed above, I'm scared it would crack or shift it. As for the bottom stud, yes, it's pressure treated

Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
As Chandler said with the blocking, 2' on center. One top plate is fine for all the added walls. I suggest 1" of foam board gluded to the concrete walls as per article. A 1" air space to the wall with unfaced glass batts with no vapor barrier or vapor retarder. A treated bottom plate on some poly sill sealer or 30# felt paper. Insulate the rim joist/exterior areas with pieces of the foam board and hold/seal edges with spray can foam, then unfaced glass batts.

BSD-012: Moisture Control for New Residential Buildings —

Insulate Basement Rim Joists | thefamilyhandyman.com | DIY Projects | Reader's Digest


Be safe, G
GBR, I'll take our advice about foam board and insulating the rim joists. I was actually wondering if I should do anything since there was insulation already in there, so thanks for the link it's very helpfull...




Il let you guys know how it turns out or il be back with more questions lol
 
  #5  
Old 07-30-09, 01:47 PM
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I see the sheetrock, now. The second 2x4 would definitely not be necessary for the top plate, since the wall will end at the top of the one you have there. Good call G.
 
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