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Urgent: can I replace this rim joist w/o jacking?

Urgent: can I replace this rim joist w/o jacking?

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  #1  
Old 09-24-09, 02:17 PM
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Suburb of Detroit
Posts: 283
Urgent: can I replace this rim joist w/o jacking?

Hi, I took off some rotten facia boards under my doorwall leading to the deck. The rim joist is a little soft in spots and I was thinking about replacing it, too. As you can see, this is a bay window/bump out that leads to my deck. The deck is about five feet off the ground, so I have access under it.

Is it okay to remove the old rim joist without jacking anything up? Seems like since it's a bump out it might be okay. Thanks for any advice!

PS: The deck is free-standing, not attached to the house at all.


 
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  #2  
Old 09-24-09, 07:39 PM
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Location: WA
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Give me a pic of above the door--- roof or 2nd story, from out in the yard.
Be safe, Gary
 
  #3  
Old 09-25-09, 06:33 AM
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Location: Suburb of Detroit
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Thanks for the reply, Gary.

I think the problem is that the door wasn't flashed properly. After removing the fascia, I should seen some flashing, right? I don't see anything under the door sill except wood.

I think removing the rim joist might have to wait until I replace the door in a year or two. That will make it easier, plus there are some other pieces of wood that need to go. And if the door isn't flashed properly, what's the point?

Is there anything I can do as far as flashing with the door still in place?

 
  #4  
Old 09-25-09, 12:59 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: WA
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You should be able to replace the trim and rim below the door without worry of settling. The small roof is the only load above, and if the used ply for sheathing above the door-- that would hold it up. I would replace the board under the door with a Hardie panel or similar, not too thick. It wants to be thin enough that after install, it will leave 1/4" from the door sill drip edge so water does not weep into the sill/panel joint. Rather it drips off the sill drip-lip to the deck. Caulk that joint, too. The unpainted shake-moulding on the door jambs should drip water too, not be the same plane as the siding panel below. That is why it rotted, they relied on caulking instead of brains at the install. A main problem is a lack of gutter above the door as they thought that was special roof detail? Water hits the window, roof, roof, siding over the door, door and runs behind the door shake-mould to rot below. I would pull the trim 5/4x6) directly above the door, cut out 1-1/4" of the panel (immediately above the trim removed and up 1-1/4") install some 2x1-1/2" drip edge flashing with 1/4" lip,install a 2x5/4" flashing on the door head frame against the panel there, install trim, caulk. Water will run down onto the upper flashing and mast will drip off as it is deeper than the trim (5/4) by 1/4" plus the drip lip. Any water past, will deflect over the door at the second flashing there. Use waste pieces for the side siding (6") on either sides of the door at the sill level, next to.
Be safe, Gary
 
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