Replacing a standard door with a pocket door

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  #1  
Old 12-17-09, 08:29 AM
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Replacing a standard door with a pocket door

I hope this is the right place to ask this. If not, can someone please move this thread to wherever it belongs.

I am about to tackle a complete reno of my master bath, and have run into a bit of a dilemma.

Presently, the bath and bedroom have doors that lead to a central hallway, and there is also a door that connects the two. These are standard swing doors, and as a result, the doors constantly bang into each other. Since I will be gutting the bathroom, I would like to install a pocket door between the bath and bedroom.

Obviously, I will have to reframe part of the existing wall to make room for the door. Since the bathroom will be gutted, moving any electrical or plumbing won' t be an issue, but I don't want to take down the entire wall if I don't have to, so my first question is:

Does the thickness of the wall change to allow for the pocket door ?. If that's the case, I have to rip the whole wall, which I don't want to do.

This is not a load bearing wall. What size header should I use for the new opening ?.

What is a good pocket door for regular use ?. I don't want to buy a piece of crap, but I do have a budget I want to stick to.

What is a good place to find such a door ?. I've looked in the usual places, and nobody seems to carry them.


If the description above isn't clear, I can post pictures.


Thanks.
 
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  #2  
Old 12-17-09, 12:27 PM
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Nobody ever takes my suggestion but accordion doors are much easier to install than pocket doors. There is no need to take half the wall apart.

If you can't find a pocket door at Home Depot, try a local building supply.
 
  #3  
Old 12-17-09, 03:20 PM
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Pocket doors are nothing more than a standard slab door with the apprpriate hardware and framing. Most people feel Johnson hardware ( Johnson HardwareŽ POCKET DOOR HARDWARE ) is one of the better commonly available brands. Do not use the Stanley that may be available in some areas.

The framing kits allow you to use regular 2X4 wall thickness..they use metal and wood framing members turned flat to the wall. You may be able to just remove drywall on the bathroom side..install the framing, then repair the minor damage to the other side. I've seen it done for several projects of this nature...but couldn't begin to tell you how..

I wouldn't take Pulpos suggestion here either... (J/K Pulpo..well..not really..lol). Even fancy accordion doors look cheap to my eyes and take up some of the door opening. They have their place in utility areas, rec rooms and basements. Just not in a major master bath reno....one you want as nice as you can make it I presume..
 
  #4  
Old 12-18-09, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Gunguy45 View Post
Pocket doors are nothing more than a standard slab door with the apprpriate hardware and framing. Most people feel Johnson hardware ( Johnson HardwareŽ POCKET DOOR HARDWARE ) is one of the better commonly available brands. Do not use the Stanley that may be available in some areas.

The framing kits allow you to use regular 2X4 wall thickness..they use metal and wood framing members turned flat to the wall. You may be able to just remove drywall on the bathroom side..install the framing, then repair the minor damage to the other side. I've seen it done for several projects of this nature...but couldn't begin to tell you how..

I wouldn't take Pulpos suggestion here either... (J/K Pulpo..well..not really..lol). Even fancy accordion doors look cheap to my eyes and take up some of the door opening. They have their place in utility areas, rec rooms and basements. Just not in a major master bath reno....one you want as nice as you can make it I presume..


Thanks, I will look into the Johnson doors. It looks doable.
 
  #5  
Old 12-22-09, 09:14 AM
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All the interior doors in the log home I'm building are pocket doors. I don't recall the brand, but Home Depot sells a pocket door frame kit for about $60. It's not difficult to install, and comes with everything you need but the door itself. And in a non-load-bearing wall, you really don't even need a header.
 
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