Attaching Joists to Brick?

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Old 05-01-10, 10:44 PM
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Attaching Joists to Brick?

I have a 100 year old brick row house and I am raising the ceiling joists by 2 feet. In the original framing of the house they simply left a hole in the brick wall and inserted the joist. I would like to use the same technique. The rooms are small 10 by 12 or thereabouts, and I would like to cut out a brick or two and insert the new joists. I do have limitations in that the adjoining house is either 2 of three bricks away so I think I have to be reasonably careful while digging out the brick.Also the difficulty of putting up a joists that will be longer than the room.

My question is, how much of the joist do I have to get on that brick to feel comfortable. I have seen others where there is less than an inch of joist sitting on the brick....it make me a little nervous.
Thanks
Scott
 
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Old 05-02-10, 07:12 AM
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I would build a header instead of chopping the brick & making enemies.
 
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Old 05-02-10, 11:14 AM
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You don't want to "rest" a joist on a brick. Brick is a veneer and will fall if too much pressure is applied. As Pulpo suggested, I would opt for a full header run across the brick, bolted through the brick and into solid substrate to hold vertical pressure. Then you could install joist hangers and your joists safely.
 
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Old 05-02-10, 03:02 PM
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Not all brick is non-bearing.

Since you have row house that is over 100 years old, the brick party walls are probably loadbearing. You did no say, but I gues the brick walls are 2 stories or more.

If they are loadbearing, removing brick for ledger would seriously weaken the loadbearing party wall that could cause a problem for you, your neighbor and possibly others in the same building.

A professional should be consulted because of the possible liability.

Under some conditions, the brick can be set back 1", but the particular conditions must be evaluated and a professional can give you some options for your situation.

Dick
 
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Old 05-02-10, 09:47 PM
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Putting joists on Brick

Thank you gentlemen for your assistance. I am leaning toward putting a header up as it will be a lot easier to get a straight line going across the wall. As for your open point Concretemasonary, the wall are 2 story load bearing and these joists will be on the 2nd floor ceiling. The brick is harder than any new brick I have ever worked with. It takes me 3 minutes with a commercial grade hammer drill to put a 2 inch Tapcon in. The mortar is original, some looks fine and some looks iffy. Some walls will be pointed

Chandler mentioned putting bolts through the brick into a solid substrate. Sadly, there is only 2 o 3 bricks between me and the neighbors, so either I have to use a lag screw or bolt less than 6 inches long. If I do that I would like to put some kind of glue in there like P2P or liquid nails, any suggestions?

The other way would be build a new wall and take the load off the brick entirely. The rooms are really small(think railroad apartments) so losing 4 inches on each side would be a big deal.
Any thought would be appreiated and once again, thank for the input.
Scott
 
 

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