Welcome to the DoItYourself Forums!

To post questions, help other DIYers and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our DIY community. It's free!

Knee wall strength?


Tony_Fletcher's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 27
VA

02-19-11, 04:36 PM   #1  
Knee wall strength?

Hello!

I've build these two knee walls for a shower, within a bathroom. Both walls will be clad in backerboard and tile and seamless glass will complete the "wall" up.

I've got a little lateral flex in the top corners of the walls, in the "doorway." Will they be ok once the backerboard and tile is attached, or should I look into strengthening them now?

The only thing I can think of is dropping the sides of the "doorway" down into the subfloor and connect them to a floor joists.

I'm not as concerned with the wall on the left because it will have the vanity against it.

Any ideas?


 
Sponsored Links
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation

Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 39,968
GA

02-19-11, 06:03 PM   #2  
CBU won't give any strength laterally. How tall will your berm be? More framing due there? What will be the finish on the outside? I'm trying to think of a brace method that would go with the finish. Floor? Tile as well?

 
Pulpo's Avatar
Temporarily Suspended

Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 10,986
NY

02-19-11, 06:10 PM   #3  
I would do exactly that, drop the studs into the floor. Not only that, I would eliminate the saddle in the opening & make the shower wheel chair accessible. You never know.

 
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation

Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 39,968
GA

02-20-11, 04:15 AM   #4  
Without vertical support at the doorway from the ceiling to the floor, you will not only loose any rigidity in the area, you won't have anything to hang your doors from, should you be installing doors at the berm. I am assuming by the 2x6 wall, your plumbing will be on the right as you enter.

 
joecaption's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 3,967
VA

02-22-11, 06:10 AM   #5  
I know I must be missing something. I see no way this idea is going to work out.
The door framing at least should have gone all the way up to the ceiling, without doing that the walls are going to flex and there's nothing to hang the door from, plus the seam where the pan to wall goes is going will keep cracking.
What do you plan to do with the ledges where I would guess your glass panels are going?
All that sheetrocks also going to have to come out and be replaced with tile board with a waterproofer and taped seams.

 
Search this Thread