Welcome to the DoItYourself Forums!

To post questions, help other DIYers and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our DIY community. It's free!

How do I cut Hardwood Floors all the way to wall?

jeffsinpdx's Avatar

Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 66

04-18-11, 07:42 PM   #1  
How do I cut Hardwood Floors all the way to wall?

Got a quick question. If this isn't the correct sub-forum, please redirect to the more precise one.

I took out a partial interior wall that was next to a hallway. Now that I've taken out the wall and left a 5" void for half of the floor, I'm going to extend the 5" gap all the way to the end of the hallway and put in a strip of 5" Bruce hardwood flooring pieces to fill the entire gap the length of the hallway perpendicular to the existing 2 1/2" hardwood floor strips across the hallway.

My only issue is that I've taken my circular saw and extended the 5" gap all the way to within about 2" of the end wall as that was as far as the fence on my circular saw would allow me to push forward into the stud.

Without going out and renting some fancy toe-kick saw (or whatever professional piece of equipment contractors use for this stuff) can anyone give me some ideas as to how to cut that last two inches and still have it look presentable since it will be my transition between this 5" gap piece and the existing hardwood flooring?

I'm thinking a sawzall held VERY carefully so the end of the blade does start bouncing off the stud in the end wall right there, but I'm not convinced that is very easy to do without make a mess of the floor.


Sponsored Links
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation

Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 39,968

04-19-11, 04:27 AM   #2  
The only thing that comes to mind in my repertoire is a multimaster, or vibrating blade tool. Better ones run upwards to $500, but can be had on Harbor Freight for about $40. Rental, not sure.

joecaption's Avatar

Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 3,967

04-19-11, 05:50 AM   #3  
A sawsall will never do it without messing up the floor and wall.
Go buy a cheap copy of a toe kick saw at Northern Tool or rent one. In 15 min. you would have almost the whole job done. It will not get into the very corners so also have an Ossilating saw.

Wirepuller38's Avatar

Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,190

04-19-11, 06:24 AM   #4  
Final Cuts

Carpenters in the old days would probably have used a sharp wood chisel.

drooplug's Avatar

Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 4,940

04-19-11, 06:33 AM   #5  
You might be able to use a handsaw. Place a block of wood on the floor to use as a guide for the handsaw. You may even be able to do that just to get a nice clean cut on top and after you are about 1/4" deep, finish the rest with a chisel.

Wayne Mitchell's Avatar

Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 3,188

04-20-11, 10:04 AM   #6  
I would not hesitate to use a sawzall. Use a short stiff blade installed upside down in the tool. With the blade in upside down you can get the saw nearly parallel with the floor.

Use a straight piece of wood as a fence since the sawzall may want to jump the kerf. Start the cut at slow speed far enough out from the wall so that the blade doesn't hit at full extension.

hammerdown22's Avatar

Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 245

04-21-11, 08:13 PM   #7  
Take a block of wood and cut into it with the sawzall just enough so the blade is into it. Flip the blockupside down so it acts as a guide for the saw blade and use the upside down blade mentioned below. Put the saw blade into the "guide" now stand on the block with one foot and just barely pull the trigger to SLOWLY cut down.

A vibrating tool works well too... but you need to be really steady. One slip and they cut fast believe it or not.

jeffsinpdx's Avatar

Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 66

04-24-11, 01:33 PM   #8  
Thanks for the ideas.

I already went ahead and tried post #5 before I saw the idea about using my sawzall with the blade upside down (I'll have to remember that, that might actaully have worked well).

As it was, the handsaw sounded like a great idea. I got out my old 30" handsaw grandpa handed down to me and used it with a fence (and with the first 28 inches of the blade down skirting along the already cut part of the board to keep the saw running in a straight line. That actually worked fantastic except the last 1/4" or so of the board was hard to cut do the the fact that the saw only cuts on the "push" and was running into the drywall and could only do so well near the end.

I then went up and invested $12 on a little keyhole saw that had both a drywall blade (usually what they're used for) but also will accept a sawzall blade. I put a nice sharp "pull" sawzall blade on there and just laid it in the grove the other saw started and pulled away until it went the entire 3/4" down to the subfloor and notched it out perfectly.

So the handsaw idea was the winner. Thanks again for that!


Search this Thread