Building a wall when both the overhead joists and concrete floor are unlevel
#1
08-03-11, 10:38 PM
Building a wall when both the overhead joists and concrete floor are unlevel
I'm pulling my hair out trying to figure out the best way to build and install a utility closet in my basement to hide the sump pump. The basement isn't finished, but I'm putting in carpet, so I had the idea for the utility closet. The problem is that neither the concrete floor nor the overhead joists seem to be even. I understand that the studs must be plumb. Should I nail in place a cap plate and a bottom plate, knowing that they're not level, and then build a true squared wall for each side, and shim them in place (between the cap plate and top plate + again for the bottom)? I'm trying to wrap my noggin around this and figure out the best, or the least stupid way to do this? Also, (2nd question): Do the outside studs need to be nailed to the foundation wall, or just attached at top and bottom?
Thanks, Scott
Thanks, Scott
#2
08-03-11, 10:53 PM
Welcome to the forums!! Build your upper and lower plate frames, shim it and make it level. Secure the bottom one to the concrete using PL400, tapcons, or powder actuated pins. Cut your studs to fit. Extreme studs can be just nailed to your bottom and top plates. Any changes in the floor and ceiling will be above and below your plates. You'll have to deal with that separately. Pictures would help. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...your-post.html
#3
08-04-11, 07:28 AM
Building a wall when both the overhead joists and concrete floor are unlevel
Welcome to the forums!! Build your upper and lower plate frames, shim it and make it level. Secure the bottom one to the concrete using PL400, tapcons, or powder actuated pins. Cut your studs to fit. Extreme studs can be just nailed to your bottom and top plates. Any changes in the floor and ceiling will be above and below your plates. You'll have to deal with that separately.
I'm sorry, I'm not clear on this. You said to build the upper & lower plate frames? I thought the plate was just the 2x4's under the joists and on top of the floor. If I understand you, the shims on top should go between the joists and the cap plate? And I'm guessing you never put shims under your lower plate, directly on the concrete.?
I'm sorry, I'm not clear on this. You said to build the upper & lower plate frames? I thought the plate was just the 2x4's under the joists and on top of the floor. If I understand you, the shims on top should go between the joists and the cap plate? And I'm guessing you never put shims under your lower plate, directly on the concrete.?
#4
08-04-11, 08:37 AM
Member
I would simply install the top and bottom plate then cut each stud to fit. Unless your angle is real extreme I do not think you need to cut the studs at an angle. They should still hold up your drywall or whatever finish material you plan to finish the wall.
If the fit needs to be cut at an angle you can hold the stud up to the plates and mark them in place so you need not try to figure the angle.
If the fit needs to be cut at an angle you can hold the stud up to the plates and mark them in place so you need not try to figure the angle.
#6
08-07-11, 10:31 AM
This is only a partition wall and the problem you have is often the case when building in a basement and dealing with a concrete pad. As badeyeben says, just secure your top and bottom plate as others have suggested, and then cut your studs one by one to fit. You can attach each stud with 3" screws, with one on the front edge and the other on the back side or you can just toe nail them in the same way.
#7
08-07-11, 04:45 PM
Member
Ben has the easiest way. Snap a line for the sole plate and attach it to the concrete floor. For me a powder nailer is the quickest and easiest way to go. Mark and install the top plate plumb to the sole plate. Lay the studs against the plates, mark and cut each stud to fit.
My only reservation would be the use of screws to attach the studs. If your project is permitted and will be inspected you may want to check with the building inspector first. Unless there has been a change in the fastener schedule, nails are required. Toenailed studs require four 8d nails. Outside of code requirements decking screws would work just fine. I would not use drywall screws.
My only reservation would be the use of screws to attach the studs. If your project is permitted and will be inspected you may want to check with the building inspector first. Unless there has been a change in the fastener schedule, nails are required. Toenailed studs require four 8d nails. Outside of code requirements decking screws would work just fine. I would not use drywall screws.
