Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 97
WI
12-30-11, 01:11 PM
#1
Securing framing thru existing drywall to add wall
I am helping to transform a closet alcove in a bedroom into a walk-in closet. I need to build a wall with a door between 2 finished walls/corners. Is it acceptable to attach the new framing end uprights thru the existing wall drywall? Or do the areas where the new framing attaches need to be down to bare studs?
Need to add wall between the left & right walls to make this area a walk-in closet:
Thanks for any help.
Steve
Need to add wall between the left & right walls to make this area a walk-in closet:
Thanks for any help.
Steve
Sponsored Links
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 19,279
NE
12-30-11, 03:12 PM
#2
I'd probably remove the baseboard on each side and then glue the perimeter framing to the drywall and save yourself some work. You should be able to toenail into the top and bottom. If you put up the perimeter, a couple braces across the middle will hold it into the construction adhesive until it sets up. Just be sure you select perfectly straight 2x4's and ensure that you have them plumb on both sides or you will be kicking yourself when you go to put the door in.
If this wall is going to be flush with the existing corners, you definitely want to remove the metal cornerbead from each corner first.
My favorite is PL polyurethane. (but I don't like how it keeps oozing from the tube.)
If this wall is going to be flush with the existing corners, you definitely want to remove the metal cornerbead from each corner first.
My favorite is PL polyurethane. (but I don't like how it keeps oozing from the tube.)
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,187
TN
Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 97
WI
01-02-12, 02:58 PM
#5
Ok I started on this today. Got the bathroom door removed and then framed for drywall. Began demo of the current headers over the bi-fold doors. Removed the cornerbead on the right corner, and the baseboards throughout the area.
Planning to do some more on Thursday. Will most likely start framing the new wall with the door. Hopefully can get some photos at that time.
Thanks for the help.
Steve
Planning to do some more on Thursday. Will most likely start framing the new wall with the door. Hopefully can get some photos at that time.
Thanks for the help.
Steve
Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 97
WI
01-04-12, 04:15 AM
#7
Ok I have a new question that I would appreciate any answers/opinions about. The right and left wall/corners that I am building the closet entry wall between are not straight across from each other.
Meaning that, (use photo for reference) if you extend the facing wall on the right (straight out) to meet the wall on the left, it actually meets the left wall about 1-1/2" back from the corner.
Do I just angle the wall I am building so the drywall is flush with both current facing walls, or do I extend it straight out to the left and have a 1" setback from the left corner?
I hope that made some sense.
Thanks,
Steve
Meaning that, (use photo for reference) if you extend the facing wall on the right (straight out) to meet the wall on the left, it actually meets the left wall about 1-1/2" back from the corner.
Do I just angle the wall I am building so the drywall is flush with both current facing walls, or do I extend it straight out to the left and have a 1" setback from the left corner?
I hope that made some sense.
Thanks,
Steve
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 19,279
NE
01-04-12, 10:25 AM
#8
Well that sucks. 
Yes, it would probably be easiest to extend the wall on the right, which would create an inside corner on the left side. That way you will only have one butt joint (on the right) and one inside corner (on the left) to tape. A little less work that way. You would leave the existing corner bead on the left intact... but you would want to remove the corner bead on the right side to get rid of that "bump" so that you can line your drywall up exactly.
You could also extend the left wall and put the door in it, but it would probably be a little more work, because you would have the one butt joint (on the left) and it would also create an outside corner bead where it meets the wall (on the right)... plus you'd still have an inside corner to tape (also on the right).
Out of curiousity, how did you determine the walls are out of alignment? I'm assuming you placed a straightedge on one wall or the other? You'll get the best reference marks with a chalk line (or mason's line if you don't want to leave a mark on the ceiling) by extending the chalk line clear to the end of one of the existing walls, and place the chalk line parallel to it, then extend it beyond the corner.
Yes, it would probably be easiest to extend the wall on the right, which would create an inside corner on the left side. That way you will only have one butt joint (on the right) and one inside corner (on the left) to tape. A little less work that way. You would leave the existing corner bead on the left intact... but you would want to remove the corner bead on the right side to get rid of that "bump" so that you can line your drywall up exactly.
You could also extend the left wall and put the door in it, but it would probably be a little more work, because you would have the one butt joint (on the left) and it would also create an outside corner bead where it meets the wall (on the right)... plus you'd still have an inside corner to tape (also on the right).
Out of curiousity, how did you determine the walls are out of alignment? I'm assuming you placed a straightedge on one wall or the other? You'll get the best reference marks with a chalk line (or mason's line if you don't want to leave a mark on the ceiling) by extending the chalk line clear to the end of one of the existing walls, and place the chalk line parallel to it, then extend it beyond the corner.
Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 97
WI
01-04-12, 01:46 PM
#9
As far as determiniing their alignment, I just held a 2x4 - 8 horizontal and against the right wall. Extended it out until it reached the left wall, and it was off. I will use my laser line when I go back tomorrow.
So you didn't mention just building the wall from corner to corner. I wonder not only which way is easier, but also which way is more appealing when looking at the finished wall.
One thing that might be a slight concern - if I build the wall back from the left corner.... if the entry door swings out (with hinges on the left), it will not be able to open all the way flush with the wall. It will/might hit the protruding corner first.
Thanks for the input.
STeve
So you didn't mention just building the wall from corner to corner. I wonder not only which way is easier, but also which way is more appealing when looking at the finished wall.
One thing that might be a slight concern - if I build the wall back from the left corner.... if the entry door swings out (with hinges on the left), it will not be able to open all the way flush with the wall. It will/might hit the protruding corner first.
Thanks for the input.
STeve
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 18,476
WI
01-04-12, 03:11 PM
#11
I'd build from the corner which sticks out further into the room just to maximize the created space.
I'm with X, I would not just go corner to corner with this, I would go parallel to the existing walls.
I'm with X, I would not just go corner to corner with this, I would go parallel to the existing walls.
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 19,279
NE
Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 415
NJ
01-04-12, 08:12 PM
#13
I was reading the thread, and you're getting some great advice, and seem to have a handle on what you will be doing.
As I looked at your pictures a question occurred to me:
Is that an air conditioning/heating vent near the top of the right hand wall?
If it is, were you planning on extending it through your walk-in closet?
If you don't extend it, what will that do to the heat/ AC in that area of the house?
Good luck with the project.
As I looked at your pictures a question occurred to me:
Is that an air conditioning/heating vent near the top of the right hand wall?
If it is, were you planning on extending it through your walk-in closet?
If you don't extend it, what will that do to the heat/ AC in that area of the house?
Good luck with the project.
Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 97
WI
01-05-12, 02:15 AM
#14
Yes the replies have been very helpful in sorting out some of these details. I am sure that after doing some more demolition today it will uncover more to figure out.
Yes that is a heat/AC register on the floor and the return is on the right wall. There is one other register in the room, and I was told that the closet register is kept closed because the room gets more than enough heat/AC. There is at least one other return in the hallway.
I suggested putting in a louvered closet door to provide some air flow into the closet. This is under debate, and I was told that the closet door would probably be open most of the time anyhow....
Thanks for the thoughts about this project.
Steve
Yes that is a heat/AC register on the floor and the return is on the right wall. There is one other register in the room, and I was told that the closet register is kept closed because the room gets more than enough heat/AC. There is at least one other return in the hallway.
I suggested putting in a louvered closet door to provide some air flow into the closet. This is under debate, and I was told that the closet door would probably be open most of the time anyhow....
Thanks for the thoughts about this project.
Steve
Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 97
WI
01-05-12, 02:40 AM
#15
Here is one more "before" photo.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Since the photo I have taken out the doorway on the right. Also have removed the bifold doors, tracks, and have removed the header above the bifold at the back. Working on it more today. Am planning to take some photos.
Steve
[IMG]
[/IMG]Since the photo I have taken out the doorway on the right. Also have removed the bifold doors, tracks, and have removed the header above the bifold at the back. Working on it more today. Am planning to take some photos.
Steve
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
