I'll soon be framing in part of my basement, which is a classic long/narrow Ranch with a 5.5" wide steel I-beam running the center line, along with the main ducting trunks beside it.
Ceiling isn't bad (7'4.5") but the bottom edge of the beam is a bit low, 6'6.75" from the slab.
I'm adding a wall along part of the beam which separates two rooms with a door between. Due to the ducts, it will require a soffit on the "inside" side of the far room.

Any suggestions on how to frame the door at the top, so as not to lose too much height on the door? If I attach a 2x6 flush to the beam (as with the rest of the wall), then account for a standard 2" door frame, that leaves only ~6'3" to the slab - way too short!

I'm assuming this means not buying a standard pre-hung door (which is probably out anyway since the wall is 6" thick) and having to make my own frame. Or maybe buy one and cut it off at the top...

What about adhering a 1/2" or 3/4" piece of nice finish wood to the beam, and just using that screw a jamb onto, then nail the frame right to the jack studs on the sides?

 

Does your door have to be in that location? Can it be placed like in an alcove into that room, use the full height door and have it open away from the beam?

 

Unfortunately... not really. Because of the ducting just behind the beam, I'd either have to have a low "ceiling" in the alcove, which I fear would be a bit claustrophobic, or make it more of a whole hallway which would take a lot of space out of the room. I will give that some more thought, though...

is there a reason my suggested "frame" above wouldn't work?

i love this house & basement - but that beam and ducting running the whole length really limits layout options

 

Remember we can't see this. There is really no reason to frame the top of the door set. You can use the steel beam as a top, and just secure it in the opening very well on the sides against the framing there. That would only drop your door opening by 3/4".

 

Thanks.

Silly question - is there a required (code) height for door handles?
E.g. if I remove 2" from a door, I'd rather do 1" from top and bottom so the panels don't look funny.

In a previous house, a basement closet door had 3" cut off the bottom to fit a tight space, and it felt weird opening it. But I wouldn't think anybody would notice an inch..?

 

Probably until you get into 3" or more it won't make much difference if you take it off the bottom since the bottom rail is substantially thicker than the top one. An inch or so, I'd take off the bottom. If it is a hollow core door, after about 1 1/2" you will need to fill the hollow core with the scrap you took off, once you remove the veneer, glue it and slide it back in the opening.

 

[QUOTE]after about 1 1/2" you will need to fill the hollow core with the scrap you took off[QUOTE]

It can be difficult to remove the doors veneer from the wood you removed from the bottom [or top] I like to rip [on a table saw] a piece of 2x4 to fit...... that's a whole lot quicker/easier