I'm looking to build a wall to wall closet in an existing drywalled space. The length of the wall is 82" and I am planning on adding a double door with 28" doors.

Problems:
1. Ceiling joists run parallel to the wall and the wall will have to be between two existing joists. No choice on placement here.

2. Ceiling is not flat. On the left side the height is a normal 8ft ceiling. On the right side, (against an exterior wall) the height is 84". From the right side the ceiling slopes upward for 2.5 feet until it is 8ft high and then curves and runs flat and level to the left (interior) wall.

My proposed solution:
Since there is no ceiling joist, but I have a solid wall on either side to fasten studs to - I planned to forego the usual "king stud" door framing and have the door header run the entire length of the wall and frame the door opening and rest of the wall below it.

I would then install this portion of the wall first. Then built up the portions above the door header after installation. I would fasten the top plate to the ceiling with construction adhesive and drywall toggles. The cripples will then be cut to length on an angle for each location.

Problem with this approach:
The sloped ceiling and wall height on the exterior (right) side will not allow for a substantial header to run the entire width. With only 84" height available at the right wall, I only have a couple of inches above the space required for the frame.

Will a single 2x4 be sufficient to serve as a door header for this (approx 60" opening) closet door?

Is there a better approach?

If it helps I can jot down a diagram and post a link.

 

Sounds odd. I think you have a good idea with running the header the whole length, but I wouldn't use anything less than a 2x6 for a header that long... and maybe scribe the header to the ceiling on the left end to achieve the RO height you need. (you could also sacrifice some height on the doors you know) Im assuming that where your left trimmer will be and your rough opening starts that the header height will then be =/> 3 1/2".

Gluing and toggling two or three layers of 3/8" plywood on the ceiling as a top plate would allow the top plate to curve with the ceiling and give you something to nail to.

 

I wonder if this is just confusing...

Here are some photos to help:
http://206.191.60.66/temp/horz.jpg
http://206.191.60.66/temp/vert.jpg
http://206.191.60.66/temp/overview.jpg

 

I'm confused - how do you construct a 2x6 header that is only 3 1/2" inches tall?

I can use a doubled 2x4s as a header easily enough provided that I use 78"doors or something like that. Given the solid anchoring points at each end stud, what might my best full -span header option be, given about 4 inches to work with?

The plywood layers for the curver sound interesting - the curve might be too sharp for that solution - but I'm going to give it a try with some scrap. The pictures I've posted might help this one out.

 

Yes, the pictures help. Your top plate doesn't really look like a curve, I think you could butt 2 pc of 2x4 together there, perhaps with a little creating cutting. Hopefully this picture I drew will make it clear.



You could also locate the door in the center of the opening if it makes more sense to have a small amount of shelving on each side.

 

Amazingly helpful diagram.

I like that - and I am definitely planning on putting the door in the center. That way I can also put a decent molding around the door without it running against that lower ceiling corner.

There will also be a wall mounted light (enclosed fixture) in the closet above the center of the door, which is another reason the door must be centered - I am bringing wire up from the right side. Another reason I was leary about making the door header too tall.

I see how the 2x6s will work. Even though not load bearing, you would strongly recommend using those instead of 2x4s on edge, correct?

 

You "could" use a 2x4 header... my thinking is just that a 2x6 header would be more rigid if it spans 78". If you put construction glue and a few toggles into the top plate, then give it a day or two to set up before continuing with your framing, there probably isn't any reason the header would have to go wall to wall. In that case, it would only need to be 57" long, and a 2x4 header would be fine. But if your header is 78" long.... you get my drift.

Since your rough opening will be centered, my drawing is off. Your top plate on the right would then have room to continue unbroken to the right wall. The header would butt up under it.

You will want to ensure that the trimmers on both sides of your rough opening (and the rest of the wall, obviously) are SUPER plumb. Otherwise you'll have difficulty getting your double doors to line up within the same plane.

 

Hey - thanks very much for your help. I really appreciate your responses and the detailed diagram. This is my first framing project and it has been a great learning experience. I'll be using your suggestions this weekend!

 

you're welcome! Hope it goes well this weekend. If you have more questions along the way just ask, there are plenty of people here willing to help.