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framing 2x6 walls vs 2x4 walls


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03-11-12, 06:55 AM   #1  
framing 2x6 walls vs 2x4 walls

Is framing 2x6 walls 24" OC much harder then 2x4 walls 16" OC?

 
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03-11-12, 08:28 AM   #2  
Always frame 16" OC regardless of using 2x6 or 2x4 studs. The extra cost of lumber will be off set by the fact you will not need to use 5/8" sheetrock, outside sheathing, and hanging your siding.


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03-11-12, 11:54 AM   #3  
What he said. Using deeper studs doesn't alter the fact that 16" oc is desired for proper sheetrock and siding placement. You would be trading $3 per stud for $5 worth of Goody's, cause the headaches would begin.

 
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03-11-12, 03:08 PM   #4  
By the time you actually count up the number of studs needed for 16" oc vs 24" on center you will discover all of the window, door, corner, "T" wall requirements add back in much of what you expected to save. Now, 2x4 vs 2x6 isn't an option in cold country. In fact 2x6 is starting to be on the low side when it comes to proper insulation. I'm assuming you are building an outside wall.

Bud

 
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03-11-12, 04:09 PM   #5  
Keep in mind the OP may not be trying to frame 24" oc to save money on materials. The motivation could be to just use less wood for the sake of using less wood. They are calling this "advanced framing" these days.

Either reason, Bud makes a great point. My brother recently build a detached garage. They talked about using advanced framing, but realized that it wasn't going to be possible because of all the windows and point loads. Nothing was going to line up anyway, so they went with 16" oc.

 
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03-11-12, 05:14 PM   #6  
Good point Drooplug. Counter point: Wood is a renewable resource.


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03-11-12, 05:33 PM   #7  
I'm not trying to save wood by going with the 2x6 exterior walls , i expected it to take slightly more wood but not much.
i', just wondering how much xtra weight I'll have to lift when putting the walls in place.
I'm doing 2x6 walls for more insulation plus it may be required by the city these days unless your going to spray foam , you have to pass the rescheck and i don't know if i can pass rescheck with 2x4 exterior walls

 
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03-11-12, 07:26 PM   #8  
Build them 2x6 16" OC but only build them as long as you can stand up. Then put them together by toe nailing in the joining stud. Tie them through with the 2nd top plate.


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03-12-12, 03:07 AM   #9  
just wondering how much xtra weight I'll have to lift when putting the walls in place
In an 8' section, the weight of 2 2x6's. Sort of negligible considering the insulation benefits.

 
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03-12-12, 08:23 PM   #10  
If standing the wall up is a problem. You can always get some one to give you a hand, or you can get what they call a wall jack. That what I used to stand my walls up. Every body was going to help, till I needed the help. So I did it on my own with the jacks, and a rope across the back, to keep it from going to far.

 
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03-13-12, 03:44 PM   #11  
Good point Drooplug. Counter point: Wood is a renewable resource.
I wasn't pushing for support of that way to frame. Just wanted to put it out there as a possibility.

Fine Homebuilding just had an article about what the Make Ir Right Foundation has learned over the last few years in building their homes in New Orleans. One of the things was that they found is the use of SIPS is more economical than using advanced framing. That style of construction uses far less wood than advanced framing.

 
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03-13-12, 06:54 PM   #12  
Humm, Never heard of SIPS. I will have to do some reading on that. Which issue of Fine Homebuilding?


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03-13-12, 11:12 PM   #13  
I have heard of SIPs they are Structural Engineered Panels and are made with a foam core in the middle with osb on both sides. This Old House has used them on their projects as has Hometime. They save a great deal of time in installing walls and since they are already insulated you don't need to add insulation. They use them for both walls and roofs.

 
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03-14-12, 04:42 PM   #14  
Humm, Never heard of SIPS. I will have to do some reading on that. Which issue of Fine Homebuilding?
April/May 2012

Structural Insulated Panels.

 
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03-14-12, 05:22 PM   #15  
Looks like a pain to run the electric. You basically have to fish everything.


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03-15-12, 04:18 PM   #16  
I forget the details. I think they come with channels from the manufacturer. Adding additional lines in the future may be a pain.

I think what MRT did was use the basements and attics for most of the wiring. ANd then just bring the line up into the walls when there was an outlet.

It may be a pain to run electric, but it's real easy to put up the walls and insulate.

 
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