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Minimum Interior Wall Thickness (non-load bearing)

Minimum Interior Wall Thickness (non-load bearing)

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  #1  
Old 05-30-12, 07:17 PM
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Minimum Interior Wall Thickness (non-load bearing)

I will have a 28" deep x 8' high non-load-bearing interior residential stub wall between a combined kitchen and dining room. I want to reduce the wall thickness to gain a little extra room on kitchen cabinet wall. There will be an outlet and light switch in this wall.

What is the minimum stud thickness for this type of wall?

I want to rip a 2 x 3 stud (1.5" x 2.5" actual size) down to 1.5" x 1 7/8".

This would allow me to still use 1/2 drywall and would give me the exact width I need plus a 3/8" buffer.

I have table saw to rip the studs.

Thanks in advance for reply.
 
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  #2  
Old 05-31-12, 03:33 AM
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Check with local code to see if they will allow you to use "pancake" type boxes for your receptacles and switch. Even if they do, the receptacle will have to be the end run with only one cable. Likewise the switch will need to be a switch loop. I don't think the shallow boxes will have enough capacity to handle more than one or two cables, plus it will be a pita to stuff receptacle and switch plus wires in a shallow box. Consider the stability of this wall. Will it take any punishment such as people placing their hands on it as they pass by. Your will will be almost paper thin and can't take any abuse whatsoever. I would consider using 3/8" plywood on one surface of the wall, with an overlay of 1/4" sheetrock. This will help the walls stability.
 
  #3  
Old 05-31-12, 05:31 AM
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
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You don't have to rip the studs just use 2X4 studs and instal them sideways.
 
  #4  
Old 06-01-12, 12:07 PM
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I'd suggest you look at the ramifications of doing what you are proposing--particularly if there will be kitchen cabinets attached to the new, flimsy wall (yes, it will be flimsy). Don't be surprised to see the wall deflect (visibly move) every time you close a cabinet door.
 
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