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Replacing rotted wood to plate - what's the trick?


dnspade's Avatar
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10-24-12, 10:14 PM   #1  
Replacing rotted wood to plate - what's the trick?

Wasn't able to post pix; it is late and I will need to re-read the instructions tomorrow. In essence, I have slightly under 4' of width of wood rot that extends up and beyond the window, likely to the gutter where the cause originates.

I have removed and replaced the damaged rimjoist, as well as beefed up the damaged engineerd joists, and removed a conveniently sized eight inch section of the subfloor which was primarily rotted out.

Tomorrow, I am going to insert a fresh section of subfloor, securing it to the rimjoist and joists. Interestingly enough, the 1st floor wall components did not seem to care that the subfloor area was no longer there (except some carpet tack strips).

Then comes the tricky part. I need to replace a 40" section of the 2x6 wall plate. It spans three stud sections...from right to left, a 2x6 which is also nailed to a corner structure which is unaffected, a singular 2x6 which is stand alone but heavily damaged and will be sistered or replaced depending on how far up the rot goes, and finally a 4stud blocking section at the lower rh corner of the window.

Given the lack of movement, and condition of the plate, am tempeted to sawzall the length of the plate with the sill and replace it with one new piece sistering it with a supplemental piece of plate over the butt joint. Get mixed bag on other forums, including just replacing a stud's worth of plate at a time and sisgeting them together, to jacking enter walls with supplementary walls.

Can you succeed remove relatively short sections? Would performance improve by temporarily bolting on a horizontal section to the joists above the cutout are?
If I have to build a temporary wall, do I have to physically attach to the joists above, or just rely on close fit and the ceiling drywall? will the second floor ceiling/floor joists tun parallel to the floor joists or perpendicular? Guessing parallel but never can be sure.

Final question on the related rot. The rot has only penetrated only about 1/2 inch into the 2x6 on the window cripple studs. Should I remove it and replace with som plywood, or do I need to replace it all? I get replacing regular studs, but moving/repairing a 4-stud blocking is a mystery to me.

Thanks

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XSleeper's Avatar
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10-25-12, 09:45 AM   #2  
Looks like you were close to attaching the photo... the link must have been bad. If all else fails, just copy and paste the link to the uploaded photo.

Well, I can't see what you see, but in some respects I would be inclined to replace as much as is reasonable, but then sister the rest, just so that you can have something solid and at the right level to renail your new plywood to. At the window perimeter (trimmers), I'd probably try and chisel or cut back some of the rot and glue a shim onto the stud. Since this is a 2x6 wall (5 1/2" wide) I really don't think we need to worry too much about 1/2" of outer rot compromising the wall strength.

If it's the mold potential you are worried about then it's all got to come out. But if you are going for structural integrity and the rot is mostly on the outer 1/2", I would say sister and shim+glue as needed.

Maybe you could fix the link to the photos and we might have a new perspective on it.

 
dnspade's Avatar
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10-25-12, 11:35 AM   #3  
XSleeper - let's try this (must admit for some reason have not mastered the photobucket well).



As I said, ignore the fresh 2x4 which are there to attach a cover to.

Based on that, I will remove 1/2" of material, which gets rid of any of the rot, and put a 1/2" ply as a shim. I just did not want to replace a jack,king and two cripple studs all joined together with elec running through it.

Now back to the original question (which was a typo in the title) - do I need to brace the the wall in order to remove the 4' section of TOE Plate, which has almost completely rotted out. The overall wall is about 12' long. My guess is I do, but wanted to see if there was any trick besides building a temporary wall.

Thx

 
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10-25-12, 11:45 AM   #4  
Wow, that's bad!

Well, the trick would probably be to take a 2x12x4' and lag bolt it to each stud on the inside. Then you will be able to take the weight off those studs by either using a bottle jack on each end, or by cutting some 2x4's a little long and wedge them between your floor joists and the bottom of that 2x12. As you force them into place it should lift the wall enough to get the old sill plate out and to get the new one in. (in one piece)

 
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10-25-12, 09:10 PM   #5  
You may want to keep in mind some presssure treated lumber

 
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