Go Back  DoItYourself.com Community Forums > Interior Improvement Center > Framing, Flooring and Sub-Flooring
Reload this Page >

Help me frame a exterior 36" door into a load bearing wall

Help me frame a exterior 36" door into a load bearing wall

Reply

  #1  
Old 12-08-12, 10:43 AM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 7
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Help me frame a exterior 36" door into a load bearing wall

Hey guys,




First post. This forum is awesome has helped me build alot of my basement. I have a few questions regarding framing in this door though. It is a load bearing wall and I dont know how big to size the header for the door and other general load bearing wall framing.

The Door is going on the wall with the window. To the right of the window.

The concrete on the outside is about 8" higher the the floor of the basement and base plate. I could cut a few inches off the concrete but it still wont be flush with the floor. I plan on doing a small landing.

Any tips or suggestions on this would help me out lots.

Thanks

Tyler



 
  #2  
Old 12-08-12, 01:51 PM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 39,965
Received 6 Votes on 6 Posts
Welcome to the forums! Is this the space you want to install the door? What is below the white line on the wall? Is that concrete? If so, it is more than 8" high. In a situation like this in a normal wall, you could make your header 46 1/2" long, or whatever it is between the faces of the outermost studs, and add jacks under the header at both ends. Then frame in your door opening to 38", which will accept a 36" door. Your header should allow for 82" in height, so build it accordingly. I'd just like to know what that material is below the white line.
 
  #3  
Old 12-08-12, 03:27 PM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 7
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Below the white line is a PT plywood. The concrete is pour against it like a form.

The concrete only goes about 8-10" above the base plate, not all the way up to the white line.

Yes, the picture is where I'd like to install the door from the inside. The distance is 47 1/4" across.
 
  #4  
Old 12-08-12, 03:44 PM
Halton's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 337
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
.



Is there room for a header?.....what is the height from the concrete floor to the joists above?

Also.....there is a double joist in the middle of your new door opening.

Likely there is a wall above which adds a point load and more weight to the equation.

The saving grace may be that the exterior wall is 2x6 ......which will allow for a triple header.



.
 
  #5  
Old 12-08-12, 03:51 PM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 7
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
slab to ceiling is 8' high
 
  #6  
Old 12-08-12, 03:56 PM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 7
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
This should give a better idea

 
  #7  
Old 12-08-12, 06:17 PM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 39,965
Received 6 Votes on 6 Posts
So there's an 8" "berm" for lack of a better word on the outside of this pt plywood?? Does it extend all around the house?
 
  #8  
Old 12-08-12, 07:32 PM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 7
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
What happened was the house was planned to be a walk out basement. The city then changed the grade to just above the floor. So the builder built like a walk out without the door. Then put up a small cement wall as a retaining wall and back filled it in.

I am building my basement into a suite and I am installing the door as a separate entrance.
 
  #9  
Old 12-08-12, 08:08 PM
Halton's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 337
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
.



Regarding the door header.....my span table shows the following for your situation.

Exterior bearing wall......roof, ceiling, two center-bearing floors and maximum snow load.

Double 2x6 header.....maximum span is 3 feet....... (up to 28' building width)

So you will be ok with a triple 2x6 header......plywood filler to match wall thickness.

The header needs to be directly under the double top plate......do not remove those.

You will need double jack studs under each end of the header.....you have enough space.

The ends of the header and the jack studs must be attached to king studs on both sides.

The king studs run from bottom plate to top plate and ensure the header will not cripple out.

Temporarily support the floor joist above before you remove the two wall studs.

Frame the rough opening leaving enough space for shims and spray foam.

And......complete all the framing before you cut the opening to the exterior.



.
 

Last edited by Halton; 12-08-12 at 08:23 PM.
  #10  
Old 12-09-12, 04:48 AM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 39,965
Received 6 Votes on 6 Posts
Halton's construction method is spot on. However, I am concerned with the grade. As I understand it, you will have an 8" step up to your door threshold. You obviously can't (shouldn't) lower the wall due to the grade that was put in place during construction. So basically 96" less the 8" gives you 88" to work with. A door and frame will eat up 82" of that, leaving 6" for a header. Clarify points not understood, please, as it may not all be as you see it.
 
  #11  
Old 12-12-12, 12:03 AM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 7
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
How did I do?













 
  #12  
Old 12-12-12, 01:01 AM
BridgeMan45's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 3,194
Received 1 Vote on 1 Post
Decent-looking job with the new header. Now it's just a matter of reconfiguring the grade outside, to prevent runoff (rain and snow melt) from flooding the room. Maybe not an issue, what with the covered patio area on the outside.
 
  #13  
Old 12-12-12, 05:44 AM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 26,519
Received 775 Votes on 716 Posts
I don't think you should have installed the 2x6 flat under the header, as per Larry's comment about how much room you have on the exterior. Have you checked the height of the rough opening from the cement pad to the bottom of your header, and ensured that you still have at least 82" of height to work with? Drill a hole through your sheathing and check it.
 
  #14  
Old 12-12-12, 10:00 AM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 7
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I realized I wouldnt have the room so I put a 2x6 in the top. The outside is going to have to be re worked anyways. I'll have to get some grade and wall measurements and come up with a plan. Maybe a step down with a drain or something.

The rough opening is 83 1/2" tall and 38" across. I bought a 36" pre hung door. I think I'll put a 2x6 across the bottom as well.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: