Rabbited Floor Joist on a Rotted Bottom Plate


Old 12-20-12, 01:46 PM
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Rabbited Floor Joist on a Rotted Bottom Plate

I found the bottom plate rotted in my 100 year old Colonial. Not the entire length
only 3 bays.The way the house is built I have the sill plate on the block foundation , that seems to be fine . But the joist is rabited [spelling?] so it sits on the sill AND the bottom plate.I want to know if I can take the load off one or two joists with an hydraulic jack , chop out the bad plate and replace sections of the bottom plate with pressure treated lumber .Because the joists are sitting on both members ,it seems the only way. Being an older home it's all undressed timber 2x4's are actually 2 inches by 4 inches. I'll simply cut them to size out of 6x6 pressure treated.I just need to know if my plan is safe though probably not to code.
The exterior is PVC sideing that I really do not want to open.
I suspect the moisture got in from an electrical pipe nipple installed to feed power to the garage. Of course that will be rectified during the repairs.
I've been in construction 30 years so I'm not conserned about doing the work.
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Old 12-20-12, 02:25 PM
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Welcome to the forums! I don't see the problem as long as you span at least 3 joists. That will equalize the pressure on the plate and reduce bowing by just having a joist sitting on either end. You could raise a considerable part of the house with proper jacks and a beam. It just depends on how aggressive you need to be. Pictures wouldn't hurt, in order to help us give better information. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...your-post.html
Old 12-21-12, 12:30 AM
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I've done what you're going to do, several times. The only way to get a longer sill plate into place is to come in from the outside (removing siding), or come in from the end if you're near a corner (and still removing siding). You'll do too much damage to the sheetrock above by trying to raise the affected floor joists several inches.

I agree on not wanting to pull siding, so here's a better plan: simply install a first layer of sill in shorter sections, cutting them to fit between the joists before sliding them horizontally into place from the basement or crawl space. Then add more shorter sections to infill the spaces that are left, and finally install a "keeper" layer of sill between all joists on top of the first layer previously installed. Very little raising is required doing it this way, more a matter of just temporarily holding your joists in position with vertical T-braces. I glued and screwed everything, and made a point of treating all of the end cuts with preservative before sliding the pieces into place.
Old 01-02-13, 10:53 AM
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Thanks for the quick replies.Been busy with this old house. I won't be actually raising the floor only taking the weight off and multi joist span while lifting is my plan. A new twist has come up though. The studs them selves . The walls are wood lathe and plaster and I'm in the process of rehabing them.I'll leave that wall for last, hopefully with not too much damage.I also plan to cut any toe nailing from stud to joist to prevent damage and also hope the keys can hold the studs up, during the weight lifting.Fingers very crossed! Really appreciate the input THANKS. Spring is the planned endevor I'll let you know how it goes. Be good Stay safe JIM. P.S. The bottom of the studs seem alright. No good deed goes unpunished. Later

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