Window removal and fill in
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Window removal and fill in
I'm pretty sure this will be a quick and easy job, but figured I'd get some confirmation before I go ahead.
I'm going to be removing the window between the stairs and the attic. This is an old single pane window which doesn't offer anything in the stairwell other then heat/cooling loss.
From what I understand, basic steps are;
- Remove window and trim
- frame out the perimeter of the window area and the center (16" C to C)
- Warm side will be drywall --> vapor barrier (pastic) --> studs & insulation --> plywood (on attic side, doesn't need to be pretty).
I'll need to blend the drywall in with the existing plaster, which hopefully shouldn't be too big of a deal.
What I'm wondering is if I should remove the window frame completely or just frame the 16 C to C inside the window frame.
Here is a not so great photo of the window. The original purpose of the photo wasn't to about the window.
I'm going to be removing the window between the stairs and the attic. This is an old single pane window which doesn't offer anything in the stairwell other then heat/cooling loss.
From what I understand, basic steps are;
- Remove window and trim
- frame out the perimeter of the window area and the center (16" C to C)
- Warm side will be drywall --> vapor barrier (pastic) --> studs & insulation --> plywood (on attic side, doesn't need to be pretty).
I'll need to blend the drywall in with the existing plaster, which hopefully shouldn't be too big of a deal.
What I'm wondering is if I should remove the window frame completely or just frame the 16 C to C inside the window frame.
Here is a not so great photo of the window. The original purpose of the photo wasn't to about the window.
#2
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If you remove the casing then the window jambs will still be flush with the existing drywall.....so you likely would have to remove the window frame (jambs) in order to maintain a flat surface. Plus....any "extra" wood you leave in place means less insulation as there is likely a rough opening already framed on the perimeter of the window. Hard to tell without seeing the other side, but if you completely remove the window you may be able to remove some drywall around the edges to expose the rough framing which would then give you a surface to attach the drywall to after adding the center studs.
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If you remove the casing then the window jambs will still be flush with the existing drywall.....so you likely would have to remove the window frame (jambs) in order to maintain a flat surface. Plus....any "extra" wood you leave in place means less insulation as there is likely a rough opening already framed on the perimeter of the window. Hard to tell without seeing the other side, but if you completely remove the window you may be able to remove some drywall around the edges to expose the rough framing which would then give you a surface to attach the drywall to after adding the center studs.
.
#3
Member
Thread Starter
If you remove the casing then the window jambs will still be flush with the existing drywall.....so you likely would have to remove the window frame (jambs) in order to maintain a flat surface. Plus....any "extra" wood you leave in place means less insulation as there is likely a rough opening already framed on the perimeter of the window. Hard to tell without seeing the other side, but if you completely remove the window you may be able to remove some drywall around the edges to expose the rough framing which would then give you a surface to attach the drywall to after adding the center studs.
Not sure if I want to remove anything below the jambs as it's plaster, and would make things a bit more messy and introduce issues with cutting straight.
I have a pretty good pile of 2x4s and 2x6 in the garage, so extra framing might be a whole lot easier them cutting plaster.
#4
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I understand your thought process..... .....but you may then end up with triple 2x4's on either side.....which as I mentioned just means less insulation. Cutting the plaster back to expose the existing studs may be worth it....and it doesn't have to be perfect as the joint with the new drywall would be covered with plaster.
Is it plaster and wood lath?.....or 60's era small sheet drywall with a hard skim coat of plaster?
Though brittle....the 60's era stuff can be cut back without too much fuss.
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I understand your thought process..... .....but you may then end up with triple 2x4's on either side.....which as I mentioned just means less insulation. Cutting the plaster back to expose the existing studs may be worth it....and it doesn't have to be perfect as the joint with the new drywall would be covered with plaster.
Is it plaster and wood lath?.....or 60's era small sheet drywall with a hard skim coat of plaster?
Though brittle....the 60's era stuff can be cut back without too much fuss.
.
#5
Member
Thread Starter
I believe the stairway is like the rest of the house and that would be 1930's wood lath plaster.
Some of the house has seen renos over the years, so not all of it is wood lath. I think the stairway is original however.
Some of the house has seen renos over the years, so not all of it is wood lath. I think the stairway is original however.
#6
Cutting with a masonry blade or, better yet, a diamond-toothed blade, using a circular saw set to the depth of the plaster and lath and following a snapped chalk line should get you to a half-lap location on the existing rough framing. Just seal off the area, establish negative air pressure and wear a respirator - you're not going to believe the dust!
OTOH, framing inside the existing frame and adding 1" to 2" wide XPS strips over the framing on the attic side would be easier, cleaner, and give you a deeper bay for the insulation between the framing members.
OTOH, framing inside the existing frame and adding 1" to 2" wide XPS strips over the framing on the attic side would be easier, cleaner, and give you a deeper bay for the insulation between the framing members.
#7
I know you have thought about the exterior of the house, already and how you will tie it into the remainder once the window is out so it doesn't look like a removed window. Just thinkin'
#8
Member
Thread Starter
It's not an exterior window for say. It is between the attic stairway and the attic. The attic side cosmetics is a non-issue.
The stairway is a warm area that is loosing heat with this single pane window.
The stairway is a warm area that is loosing heat with this single pane window.
#10
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Location: Wet side of Washington state.
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The window is an architectural detail of the house, removing it would be a mistake in my opinion. Why not simply insulate it from the attic side? You could even add a small fluorescent or LED lighting fixture on the attic side if you wanted to illuminate the window.
I would use rigid polyisocyanurate insulation and just build a box around the window on the attic side. Simple, easy and preserves the window while removing it as a energy-wasting item.
I would use rigid polyisocyanurate insulation and just build a box around the window on the attic side. Simple, easy and preserves the window while removing it as a energy-wasting item.