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anchoring a 4"x4" post to the concrete basement floor after putting up a beam

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  #1  
Old 03-14-13, 06:01 PM
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anchoring a 4"x4" post to the concrete basement floor after putting up a beam

i just finished putting up a (lam)beam, i need to know the best way to anchor the 4"x4" posts supporting the beam to the concrete basement floor... also the 4"x4" posts are already in place & true.


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Last edited by zimmermanjj; 03-14-13 at 07:41 PM.
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Old 03-14-13, 07:00 PM
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What are the 4x4's sitting next to? More vertical framing? Need more information and possibly pictures of your set up so we can give better advice. If the posts are already installed, there's not much else you can do with the exception of angle bracing at the bottom.
 
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Old 03-14-13, 07:36 PM
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anchoring a 4"x4" post to the concrete basement floor after putting up a beam

anchoring a 4"x4" post to the concrete basement floor after putting up a beam
 
  #4  
Old 03-15-13, 02:42 AM
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The two end posts can be attached to the adjacent framing using Timberlocks. How tall is your LVL? If it is 11" and doubled, I see no need for the middle 4x4. Will there be a wall there? Or just an opening? How long is your span?
 
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Old 03-15-13, 05:00 PM
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system glitch fix

"The best way" would be to use a 4x4 post base with the code required 1" above concrete with other end attached ("J" bolt wet-set or wedge anchor dry-set) to the new thickened pad under the slab patch for the new point load bearing. Or at least some p.t. plate (also code required) between the wood/slab.

Gary
 
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Old 03-16-13, 04:29 AM
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Gary, what do you think about eliminating it due to the use of LVL and the short space? Sure would be better to free that area up than to have a post in it. Opinion?
 
  #7  
Old 03-16-13, 12:38 PM
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I presumed he already installed the correct depth Versa-lam for the span, figured by the lumber yard or he would have removed two of the three top plates ? shown for clear-spanning with a deeper beam. It appears he may have studded the exterior window wall shown, I wasn't going to mention egress windows or XPS under the bottom plates for a thermal/air/capillary break, or the poly-wrapped (called a "diaper"- because they stink after drywalling)fiberglass batt insulation without rigid foamboard as it appears he is going to stay with; until after he responded... lol.

Gary
 
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Old 03-18-13, 11:42 AM
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sorry it's taken awhile to respond, i just finished working three 16 hour night shifts...
about the beam-
3.5 inch X 5.5 inch width X height & 11 feet in length,
it does carry load from the above ground floor & roof as well...
i'm not looking for it to be code, otherwise i would have used a steel pipe for support instead of a 4"X4" post...
if you was refering to the two 2"X4"'s on top side of the beam, they run the whole length of the house and there is only two of them... they hold up the floor joist in the middle of the house, so they don't fall into the basement... it didn't look safe to me to remove them anyway...
there is a partial wall going in on the left side of the 4"X4" post, walk thru opening is to the right side...
 
  #9  
Old 03-18-13, 12:13 PM
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If you had used a double 9 1/2" LVL, you would not need the post, but since it is too narrow, you are relegated to having one. Do as Gary says, and support the beam (jack it up) cut off enough of your post to slip in a Simpson Strongtie post base with an AB designation for 4x4. You will need to swing the post to the side slightly while you position the base, fasten it to the concrete and swing the post back into position, bending the tab back up and fastening it to the post using joist hanger nails.
 

Last edited by chandler; 03-18-13 at 06:25 PM. Reason: wrong name reference
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