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Adding 2nd Floor Laundry (Converting Closet)


Sean Mahoney's Avatar
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03-17-13, 06:46 AM   #1  
Adding 2nd Floor Laundry (Converting Closet)

I have 5W x 6L closet that I am going to make into a laundry. I can get drain and water their easily.

What I am worried about is the vibrations of a front loader hurting the structure of my house or cause damage to rooms below. There is 3/4 plywood as the subfloor.

Would anti vibration pads or feet be sufficient or do I need to add another layer of plywood plus pads?

I will be making the floor Tile and have drain in the floor incase of water leaking or machine failure.

How do I keep the high frequency vibrations from hurting the rest of the house?

my front loader that I have not doesn't walk or move when it runs. I had it on a first floor before we moved at never had problems. The first floor had a tile floor with 3/4 plywood subfloor. No joist reenforcement.

Thanks.

 
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chandler's Avatar
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03-17-13, 08:03 AM   #2  
The tile will really depend on what your subflooring is sitting on, ie. joisting. What size are they and what is their spacing. How far do these joists run between supporting walls? You may be fine with your 3/4 subflooring. One thing you do not want to do is buy those gosh awful under washer drawer thingys. They offer no lateral support and will walk across your floor with the least amount of persuasion. The anti vibration pads if rubber on both sides will tend to take most of the higher end vibrations out, and if all you have it the occasional imbalance problem, the machine will usually shut down and restart to eliminate that.

 
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03-18-13, 07:29 PM   #3  
The room is 5x6. Across the 5ft on the back side is the exterior wall and the room below is 6x6 so there are walls below. I don't know the joist spacing.

The sub floor is 3/4 plywood that I would put 1/4 hardi board on then tile.

I am planning on stacking the washer and dryer, and using the anti vibration rubber feet things.

The washer has never walked or shaken the house when it was on the first floor.

The

 
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03-19-13, 03:32 AM   #4  
If you have 2x8 joists or better, or even trusses, you should be fine. I have a similar set up in my weekend rental cabin with a stackable Maytag unit and it has done fine for years without a single problem with the tile.

 
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03-25-13, 11:10 AM   #5  
What is the easiest way to tell the depth of the floor? (2x6 or 2x8, etc)

Also, a friend of mine is telling me that the second floor laundry (front loader specifically) will make every drywall joint in my house crack. I don't believe this.

 
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03-25-13, 12:21 PM   #6  
Without doing exploratory surgery, say in a closet, it may be difficult to tell what the thickness of your joisting is, or if you have trusses.

I guess your friend met his wife on the internet, too, huh? French Model??

 
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03-25-13, 12:50 PM   #7  
Simplest method of determining what you have for flooring is to remove a heating vent in the floor. Doesn't always work and not everyone has them in the floor anyway.

 
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03-26-13, 05:46 PM   #8  
I have an open bridge that spans across the second floor to the fourth bedroom. (where the Laundry will be going) Since I can see the side of the bridge (which measures about 11 inches) can I assume the joists or trusses are atleast 2x10s?

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03-26-13, 05:50 PM   #9  
@Chandler,

My friends "friend" allegedly had all the seams in his house crack from the second floor laundry (front loader).

I am having a hard time believing it considering I see this application quite a bit with no dry cracks.

Either way I am doing it! This will make my house not only more ergonomic ;-) but a 3000 sq ft house shouldn't have the laundry in the basement. Family of 4 or 5 produces so much laundry that two sets of stairs are to much.

 
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03-27-13, 03:09 AM   #10  
With what you have shown us, I don't think you will have a problem with the vibration of the laundry unit, as long as you don't use the stands. I believe you said you planned on stacking them anyway, so with rubber pads, you should be good to go.

I know it may be an impossibility, but if you could incorporate a floor drain in some manner along with the other periphery you have to install, you may have a more warm and fuzzy feeling about having it on the top floor. I have seen laundry rooms with a small berm at the doorway, tiled along with the rest of the room, as well as a few inches up on the wall, with a central floor drain. Totally impervious to a leak from the washer, should something go wrong.

 
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