interior wall fridge recess idea

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  #1  
Old 08-22-13, 12:35 PM
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interior wall fridge recess idea

I posted a prior question about my idea for recessing a fridge. Our plans have changed and I wanted to see what folks thought of my plan. Please note that this is my first time using google sketchup to draw my plans so not everything is exact. I also understand that local codes may vary, so I just want ideas on;

if this makes sense,
if its a good idea
or if there is a better way to do it.

The pictures below will show a partition wall, non load bearing that will extend from a current non-load bearing wall and house cabinets and a fridge. "Attached" to this wall is a second wall with a "door section" where the fridge will recess against the main partition wall and then the cabinets will attach to the built out section.

Screen shot one shows the back side of the wall \/

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top view of cabinet and fridge space \/

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Connection of partition walls to existing wall using advanced framing methods \/

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front view of cabinet/fridge location and "doorway" for fridge \/

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If this seems like a good plan, should I connect the walls together at the studs, sole and top plates or leave them as two independent walls?
 
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Old 08-22-13, 04:58 PM
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Why does it need to be recessed?
If I had to build something like that I would use 2 X 8 for studs and top and bottom plates for most of it not rows of 2 X 4's.
 
  #3  
Old 08-22-13, 06:05 PM
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We want it recessed for looks, and I have all the materials already to do it, so no cost as is. I thought about 2x8's but would have to purchase which is no big deal in the grand scheme of things. If you used 2x8's would you just cut out the section of sole plate where the fridge goes, or use 2x8's as studs and use 2x4's in the recess and as sole plates side by side and eliminate the sole plate in the fridge recess area?
 
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Old 08-22-13, 06:18 PM
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Most utility walls for plumbing I have seen here are built with two sets of 2X4s as you have shown. I had a customer with a very narrow kitchen. A modern refrigerator actually extended about 4" in to the doorway. Luckily there was a bathroom on the other side and there was a utility wall for the plumbing so I was able to recess the refrigerator enough to just clear the doorway. (Actually a little trickier because I needed to go a bit more than 3-5/8" and couldn't disturb the finished wall of the bathroom but basicly the same.)
 
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Old 08-22-13, 06:50 PM
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IMHO, check with local Inspector. Leaving a wood frame wall exposed in a living space is against most jurisdictions for fire safety. Fire from the motor below would ignite the framing unless protected by drywall, or other approved wall covering; Chapter 7 - Wall Covering

Gary
 
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Old 08-22-13, 07:00 PM
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I should have specified that all exposed lumber would be finished with drywall
 
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Old 08-23-13, 01:11 AM
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You can frame it with 2x4's and have two walls, but I would suggest for a top=top plate use a 2x10 to tie the walls together and give yourself a nailer for the ceiling sheetrock on both sides. You know you are only gaining 3 1/2", right? Is that enough?
 
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Old 08-23-13, 03:51 AM
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You can also achieve the same thing by using a counter depth refrigerator. They are not as deep as a traditional refrigerator and will achieve the same look you will get with the recess without the need for the 2nd wall.
 
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Old 08-23-13, 07:15 AM
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We considered a counter depth fridge but they are a bit pricey and you loose capacity. And since I already have all the lumber available, I can get the look we want and keep out existing fridge, with minimal work. I know its only 3.5" but it since I am making the wall anyway, it wouldnt be much more work to do this.

Thanks for the idea about the larger dimension top plate, will do.
 
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