help with load bearing wall in bad shape

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  #1  
Old 10-13-13, 09:46 PM
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help with load bearing wall in bad shape

To start i had a horrible contractor that messed up everything in my home after Sandy did. I am in the process of fixing everything myself now after he was gone. he messed up the floor joists bad, foundation sill beam ect. Everything i open back up i find big problems. I have been in the process now of sistering and correcting all the floor joists until i found a big problem with a main load bearing wall and another non bearing wall which i just completely rebuilt aafter my contractor built it very shoddy.

Under the stairs are some big floor board beams that run on top of the floor joists.The load bearing wall sat on these floor board beams however at the end of the floor board beams my contractor cut it out under the load bearing wall and it caused to bottom wall plate to crack and sag badly. It was already rotted a bit but cracked from the beam being removed from under it. This wall holds the staircase as well as the ceiling/2nd floor joists.

From the pics below what do you think needs to be done to fix this?

I temporarily put a double 2x4 between the joists under the problem area to hold it for a short time(red 2x4's).I also screwed on a 2x8 across the wall studs just to hold it in the mean time. I still need to fix/sister the joists under the wall too.









heres the location of the wall shown from further away .Problem is at the end of the wall under where the microwave opening is (sheetrocked in this pic).See how stairs are connected to it. In the forground is the new non load bearing wall i just built replacing the one the contractor built very badly.


whole wall straight on view


Notice the beam/planking that ran between the wall plate and the joist . It sticks out a little in the front and rest of it under the stairs . This was cut under the cracked area and reason it probably broke and sagged.




heres a pic of the wall when there was no drywall on it. You can see how the ceiling/2nd floor joists end right on that wall.They done make it to the outside wall of the house here due to the staircase. Whoever made this wall back in the day did a really crappy job. I know there should have been a header over the microwave opening too. putting that opening there was not to smart as important as this wall is.


Also before this contractor screwed up my house we use to have a arched wall in front of the bad wall. He told us the arch wall was not a load bearing wall before he removed it but i think it may have been a support wall . In the pic below it shows the arch wall. To get a idea of where it is corresponding to the bad wall in question . the kitchen cabinets on the right are on the new wall i just built and more to the right out of the pic is the bad wall in question.

Reason i think it may have been a supporting wall also is that 1 its perpendicular to the joists,2 there is cross bracing on the ceiling over where it was and 3, when walking upstairs there is a hallway and wall running to the front of the house(bedrooms on the other side of the wall however that wall looks to be directly over where the arch wall was and then above the wall upstairs is the attic which has center studs to the roof running almost right over that wall too.

What do you guys think? He said the arch wall had no pressure on it but i cant really take his word for it considering he couldnt do anything right.



 
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Old 10-13-13, 10:36 PM
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Hi..welcome.. The pros will be here soon to help you......
 
  #3  
Old 10-14-13, 03:14 AM
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Welcome to the forums! Big problems. I'll try to address a few. Why was the floor joists raised above the original joists. The subflooring should have been placed on the original joist plane with the bottom plate extending above the subflooring. The bottom plate needs replacing, period as it is crumbling. In pix #9, there must be a header above that opening where the two ladders are sitting. So is that blue line across the ceiling a header?? It looks like a landing for a staircase, is that correct? How are the joists attached to the landing? Just a few questions to get us started.
 
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Old 10-14-13, 06:07 AM
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The shoddy conttractor raised the subfloor over the original joists in the whole rest of the house with nailers on the original joists to try leveling it unfortunately so we dont really have a choice but to continue the same height but sister it with actual 2x10's from the center beam to on the sill beam and jack the originals back up. he made a big mess of the joists and on the side i am sistering he actually cut all the original joists off the main sill beam. A portion o the original sill beam was also cracked and sunk that was replaced with a new section. He did everything wrong down to the drywall. Yes the bottom plate on the wall definitely does need to be replaced. That is what im mainly here for. As far as the header across the stair landing area you are probably right however that area has been like that since the house was built in 1920. The joists over that landing area go all the way to the outside wall of the house .Over the wall in question that is not the case where the joists sit directly on that wall with the staircase being behind it. Shouldnt there be a header over the microwave opening in the wall too. That was done in a renovation years back.
 
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Old 10-14-13, 05:59 PM
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OK, I see about the joists. I don't have to agree, however with his theory. If the joists sit directly on that wall, then it is load bearing at that point and you need a header. I was thinking the joists ended at the staircase landing band board. I'm still trying to find the microwave oven opening. Which pix is it in?
 
  #6  
Old 10-14-13, 07:40 PM
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I agree with you on the floor joist should have been at the original joist plane and that they should have been leveled themselves .He was dumb to put his leveling boards and expecially only on one side of the house. However he did the whole first floor like this and taking up the 2 layers of ply on the entire first floor would be too much to do at this point so i have to fix the floor joist by sistering a little higher on the side where he didnt put any leveling boards. 2 2x10's should be strong enough though. Floor joists arnt really what i need advise on at this time though. Just the cracked wall problem. If you seen all the things this guy did wrong you woukld have a heart attack. Im talking crazy shoddy. Like the bathroom that had garbage stuffed under the plywood floor to level it and plywood was all pieced together pieces most about 12"x12" in size and under where the toilet would go the plywood scrap was cut with a saw 90% through it and also had a hole 2x the diameter of the toilet flange. he cut 90% of the beams under our boiler,stuffed plastic bottles under drywall to make it look straight,not more then 3 screws per each sheet of 4x8 drywall with the old drywall screws still behind the new.window frames were sawzalled like a horror film to put new windows in,no caulking or anything,ran romex in the dirt crawlspace,12g wire with 40amp breakers for electric stove,put joists in horizontally instead of vertically .List goes on and on .Thats not even 10% of the probs lol.

The recessed microwave opening is the square hole in the problem wall directly above the cracked wall plate. The hole that leads into the pantry with the shelves. Its in most of the pics. As for the landing i am not sure whats behind the blue painted sheetrock .There may be a header but i do know the joists up there run all the way to the outside wall unlike the problem wall where the joists are sitting on that. Since in the stairway there is not 1st floor ceiling .The staircase,landing and problem wall has been there since 1920.He didnt touch any of that except cut the beam that runs between the floor joist and bottom wall plate(plate thats cracked and sagging at the right side) . Even worse with this cracked wall is that the kitchen cabinets sit on this wall too. I know it must be fixed just not sure how to tackle it.
 
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