So I don't know where this belongs. I put it in "Framing..." because I'm building a structure, sort of. If it's in the wrong place, hopefully a mod will move it.

I need to pull a 454 CID engine out of my motorhome. It needs to come up out of a hole in the floor (similar to removing an I/O engine from a boat...I thought of putting this post over in the Boat forum). The engine needs to come out into the interior of the vehicle - cannot come out the front. I then need to cherry-pick it out the door. Fully assembled engine is about 700 lbs. The good thing is that I'll be pulling a disassembled block out first (around 400 lbs.). I also have an extra, fully assembled 350 engine to test with (the 454 weighs a bit more though).

I built this:



Mock-up before I braced it:


The main beam is 2 2x6 glued and screwed together. Legs are 2x4s. I had considered doubling up the 2x4s but it seemed like overkill. The gussets are 1/2 plywood. The beam rests on 2x4 perches screwed and glued to the legs.

It's hard to tell from the pic, but overall height is just under 5 feet (58 inches).

My issue is bracing for lateral movement. I was thinking of diagonal braces bolted to the 2x6 beam and screwed to the plywood gussets. Wondering if that would be enough? Or should I put diagonal braces from leg to leg. The issue with bracing the legs is that the block is longer than the depth of the rig. Braces could get in the way of lifting the engine out of the hole.

Any suggestions and/or pointing out obvious defects in my design would be appreciated!

 

I don't have it in front of me, so am surely missing something, but wouldn't it be easier to do everything with the cherry picker? I assume that you'd have to remove a door, and quite likely a tire and wheel, but it seems like you would have more room to work without the chain hoist in the way.

 

Thanks for the reply.

Even with a wheel removed, the cherry picker won't reach far enough into the cab. It's a combination of a height and depth issue. If I extend the boom on the cherry picker to reach the engine, I couldn't lift it high enough to get the engine out before I hit the roof of the cab. The floor of the motorhome is over 3 feet high, which is where the bottom of the door is. Due to the height, the hydraulic cylinder on the cherry picker becomes a pretty big obstruction. The engine is recessed below the floor in the middle of the rig, which is 8 feet wide.

The plan is to lift the engine out with the rig, set it down on a floor that I'll put across the hole and drag it to where I can hook it with the cherry picker. Even in that case, I need to pull the left front wheel off of it. The door will open far enough to get the engine out (with a little tweaking).

 

How about a rethink? I have changed several 454 engines in motor homes using a good cherry picker and going through left door. (worth the cost to rent a good strong one) One unit required the steering column be removed, and all had to have the driver's chair removed.
A good cherry picker and attaching to engine with a carb plate makes a barely clearance.
Undress engine before trying this -- remove AC compressor, power steering pump, smog pumps, exhaust manifolds. As stated, remove left wheel for cherry picker maneuverability and do have some sober help. Go back with the engine undressed and make final hookups after engine is back in place.
Just trying to save you some grief.
Have fun!
RR

 

Hell yeah I'll rethink it. I don't want to make it harder than it needs to be.

Before we get to the removal topic...since you have experience....I've read that the only way to get the engine out the left door is stripping it down to a short block. I bought the rig with a blown engine, heads already removed. Since the engine isn't assembled, I can't measure whether it will fit through the door. Door is 29" wide. Info I found on the Internet says that valve cover to valve cover the 454 is 27" wide. Seems like it would fit? I got a new "used" engine and would rather not strip it down to fit it through the door. What do you think? It's a Tiffen Allegro - 31 footer.

Back to the removal: I have to admit that I haven't yanked the front wheel to put the boom through the door. I've only eyed it up so far. I've used my cherry picker to pull engines out of a couple of Turbo Buicks (V6 sits way back), Roadmaster wagons and my Fleetwoods. In all cases I needed to take the front bumpers off for the boom to reach.

I figured the column had to come out anyway. I'll have to check out the boom the cherry picker I have versus what's available for rent. I have a carb plate, but the current engine is stripped down to a short block. Should be easy enough to lift out using the head bolts if the boom will reach.

If it gets above freezing outside this week I'll yank the left front wheel and see how far I can get the boom in there.

Thanks for the tip!

 

Basically you need to strip it to long block status (can leave the intake on) to get through the floor hole. The door fit is close, but a miss is as good as a mile.
I don't care to ever do another one as I am now an "old man" (69) in trifocals with one eye having a cataract removed, get dizzy when I move my head too fast, have a pacemaker, and I sure don't need any more experience on engine swaps.
I am down to lawnmowers and 4 wheelers and think I am on last 4 wheeler.
My cherry picker has an extendable boom. Pulled engine on full extension and when I got it to door, let it down and shortened boom before coming out of motor home.

RR

Feel free to ask any questions. I will answer if I can.

 

My cherry picker has an extendable boom, too. Fully extended it says the capacity is 1,000 lbs. With some channel iron I could extend it a bit further.

Everything I've read says that 1) you have to strip it down to a short block and 2) you can't get a cherry picker through the door. But after carefully re-reading what I've found on the 'Net, no one has actually DONE it.

I can tell already that this is going to be one of those things that will be fun to say I did it, but not something I want to do more than once.

Thanks again for the advice. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

Maybe we aren't talking same word definitions.
In my dictionary -- short block is just block, crank, cam, and pistons.
Long block is previously mentioned along with heads, valve train and covers, timing cover, oil pan, and it would be wise to have harmonic balancer and flywheel installed.
Check my credentials on Profile. (ASE Certified Master Auto Technician)

RR

 

Our definitions are the same. Everything I've read says that it needs to be a short block - no heads, nothing hanging off the front of it - to get it out the door. When I bought it the RV was in a storage yard. Engine had failed when the original owner was headed out on a trip. He turned it over to the towing company, not wanting to invest in an engine replacement. The heads and everything that would make it a long block were stored in a garage a mile away. I have all that stuff, but it's useless to me. The left head is damaged from the piston bashing into it. #3 piston is broken in half and the block is trashed.

The guy I bought it from (son of the owner of the towing company) bought it as a project (as I did) and is convinced that the engine will come out the door (as a long block) and with a cherry picker. I was convinced otherwise by folks that claim they've been through it and that the manufacturer (Tiffen) builds these rigs inside to remove the engine and strips them down to short blocks to get them out the door.

I bought the RV basically for the cost of the tow to my house ($350). It was really well maintained. Everything works (both furnaces, both A/C units, lights, plumbing, 6500 watt generator - you name it). It has a custom-installed air ride system that still works as well. Just needs that 454 transplant. I found a low-mileage replacement locally.

Beyond building this engine removal rig (which I guess I can use as a swing set or something), I don't really have a lot of time invested in it. I took the accessories off the front of the engine, fuel pump, etc. Got the wiring and whatnot out of the way. It's ready to come out except for the lower 2 bellhousing bolts and the torque converter bolts. Those require me getting underneath the RV and while I'm not quite as "seasoned" as you are, I'm beyond the days of rolling around on the ground in single-digit temperatures unless I really have to (and I don't really have to).

But it's been fun to have around. I can't wait to drive it - and I will. Just a question of when. I've got plans in the Spring so I have to get to it.

 

I brought them out through left door and then put them back as long blocks with intake, harmonic balancer, and flywheel.

RR

 

That's awesome. I'm going to go that route then.

 

You were right RR. I wasted about $50 in materials and a couple hours building that rig. You really can't believe everything you read on the Internet.

I stripped it down to a short block before I took it out - there was plenty of clearance. I left the steering column in place. Might be tricky to get the long block in but it's a real pain in the butt to get the column out.

I'm going to take the water pump and balancer off of the "new" engine. It was too tight getting the old one out with the balancer installed. Leaving the water pump on would make it impossible. Width-wise, I should have plenty of room if I take the valve covers off. The door is 30" wide.

I'm picking up the new engine tomorrow. I'm going to try to drop it in before the end of the month. I have some work to do in there while the engine is out.

 

GOOD DEAL!

And now the "Fun Begins"!

RR

 

Yes, "fun" indeed. I didn't disassemble some of it. The intake and left head was off of it when I got it. I removed everything else but the devil is in the details that I didn't have the benefit of seeing - wiring, plumbing, belts, etc. I was provided a couple of milk crates and big Rubbermaid containers full of parts, though. I don't have to tell you how hard it is to put something back together that you didn't take apart.

I'll sort it out. It's tedious, but not rocket science. And there's some opportunity for some improvements, too.

I have to thank you for your suggestion for a "rethink". The answer was right in front of me, with tools I already had in my garage. I had analysis paralysis.

 

So the "new" engine fit easily through the door and without removing the steering column. I could have left the exhaust manifolds on it, but I removed them anyway so the local muffler shop could install new studs.



Now I have to put the puzzle back together. I didn't disassemble it so I have some detective work to do.