Rotted Rim Joist
#1
06-11-14, 02:19 PM
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Rotted Rim Joist
I have a rotter rim joist and sub floor. Everything that I have seen shows floor joists running into the rim joists not parallel. How should I brace the joist when going to replace the rim joist. Any other advice would be appreciated.
This is below a sliding glass door. The previous owner put in cement brick steps (with gravel as a base) which backs right up the joist. No flashing or ability to drain so the water has been pooling up against this for only god knows how long. Home inspector didn't catch it either. Since I'll be taking up tile my wife tells my now I get to tile the entire kitchen.
Good thing I'll be enlisting my Dad and Father in-law in on this project as well as I don't have the experience they do.![Name: 20140611_145246[1].jpg
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This is below a sliding glass door. The previous owner put in cement brick steps (with gravel as a base) which backs right up the joist. No flashing or ability to drain so the water has been pooling up against this for only god knows how long. Home inspector didn't catch it either. Since I'll be taking up tile my wife tells my now I get to tile the entire kitchen.
Good thing I'll be enlisting my Dad and Father in-law in on this project as well as I don't have the experience they do.
#3
06-11-14, 04:14 PM
Group Moderator
How much of the rim joist are you going to remove? Is this house a brick veneer or sided?
Your situation is both easier and more difficult than when the joists are perpendicular. On the plus side you won't have joists or their hangers to mess with. On the down side supporting the weight of the house above can be more tricky as you don't have joists to jack against.
If you're just replacing a short section totally under the sliding door there is nothing much above to support. If your repair will extend to the edge of the door or beyond it gets more involved. If you have to work beyond the door then you may have to attach blocking to the exterior of the house so you have something to jack against and take the load off the rim joist.
Your situation is both easier and more difficult than when the joists are perpendicular. On the plus side you won't have joists or their hangers to mess with. On the down side supporting the weight of the house above can be more tricky as you don't have joists to jack against.
If you're just replacing a short section totally under the sliding door there is nothing much above to support. If your repair will extend to the edge of the door or beyond it gets more involved. If you have to work beyond the door then you may have to attach blocking to the exterior of the house so you have something to jack against and take the load off the rim joist.
#4
06-11-14, 06:27 PM
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It is just the joist below the door, just to get back to solid wood. The slider is only a 60" and the stairs that are on the outside that caused the issue are the length of the door only. Before digging in it appears to be a 50" section that is rotted after further measuring from the basement side but I'd rather go a little beyond to ensure and of course could be just a bit more when I remove the stairs on the outside.
#5
06-12-14, 05:09 AM
Group Moderator
On the outer edges of the door is where the load is being carried. If you can stay a couple inches in from the edges of the door's rough opening you can do the work without jacking. The subfloor and door will still want to push down but it's a light enough load that you should be able to pound the replacement rim joist in without going to the trouble of jacking up that part of the wall.
