How do we fix this? Gap in flooring and wall.
#1
07-13-14, 06:53 PM
How do we fix this? Gap in flooring and wall.
We are slowly making the mother in law unit clean and safe for our daughter.
We are overwhelmed but have to do this ourselves.
I have attached a photo I made for the project book, but 2 walls, in the living room and 1 in the bedroom, have this gap. What do I use to cover/seal it so we can paint the cement all the way to those walls?
We are overwhelmed but have to do this ourselves.
I have attached a photo I made for the project book, but 2 walls, in the living room and 1 in the bedroom, have this gap. What do I use to cover/seal it so we can paint the cement all the way to those walls?
#2
07-14-14, 03:03 AM
Welcome to the forums!
I couldn't tell from the pics
how far is the gap from the wall? if you installed baseboard would it cover it? I suppose you could fill it with something like mortar or thinset.
I couldn't tell from the pics
how far is the gap from the wall? if you installed baseboard would it cover it? I suppose you could fill it with something like mortar or thinset.
#3
07-14-14, 03:19 AM
Was that gap part of a drain/weep system? If so, it needs to remain open for water to run into. Was there tile there previously? Does it extend all around the outside walls?
Ahh, Mark, one advantage to an Ipad. You can enlarge pictures on the screen.
Ahh, Mark, one advantage to an Ipad. You can enlarge pictures on the screen.
#4
07-14-14, 03:49 AM
I was thinking maybe it had something to do with earthquake construction .... but I've never been that far west and that's more of a wild guess than anything else 
I struggle at times using a regular PC not sure I could operate an Ipad. My wife and I joke that we aren't smart enough for a smart phone 
I struggle at times using a regular PC
not sure I could operate an Ipad. My wife and I joke that we aren't smart enough for a smart phone 
#5
07-14-14, 04:35 PM
Over our heads
Thank you everyone!
It is a converted garage (40 years ago) into a 1 bedroom cottage.
The problem starts at the wall and extends out as much as 3 inches in some places into the room. Yes, maybe it was for water drainage.
We pulled up the carpet and tack strips and found it. It only occurs on exterior walls.
After sleeping on it. I thought maybe I would get 1/4? thick wood, the length of the wall and put it down to cover it, maybe lay plastic under it. Then paint it and the cement all the same color of course. If will fit under the baseboards. We are going for a Nordic French/ Shabby Chic vibe.
Dawna : - )
It is a converted garage (40 years ago) into a 1 bedroom cottage.
The problem starts at the wall and extends out as much as 3 inches in some places into the room. Yes, maybe it was for water drainage.
We pulled up the carpet and tack strips and found it. It only occurs on exterior walls.
After sleeping on it. I thought maybe I would get 1/4? thick wood, the length of the wall and put it down to cover it, maybe lay plastic under it. Then paint it and the cement all the same color of course. If will fit under the baseboards. We are going for a Nordic French/ Shabby Chic vibe.
Dawna : - )
#6
07-15-14, 03:24 AM
fix typo
I doubt 1/4" plywood would be a good idea. Concrete holds a small amount of moisture which could rot the plywood [that's why the bottom plate on stud walls is always PT wood] Plastic might cause sweating. I think it would be ok to fill it in with mortar/concrete but don't know for sure, wait and see what the others have to say.
Last edited by marksr; 07-15-14 at 06:01 AM.
#8
07-15-14, 09:31 AM
I am sorry to be so dense. I added another photo.
If we pour mortar/patch it up stuff - how do we keep it from running and falling through the gap? The gap is some places is 4 feet long, almost 4 inches wide.
Also I have read about the moisture issue else where. But the carpet tack strips, padding and carpet it self where directly on the concrete. That is why I thought wood was alright to try.
Thanks
Dawna
If we pour mortar/patch it up stuff - how do we keep it from running and falling through the gap? The gap is some places is 4 feet long, almost 4 inches wide.
Also I have read about the moisture issue else where. But the carpet tack strips, padding and carpet it self where directly on the concrete. That is why I thought wood was alright to try.
Thanks
Dawna
#11
07-17-14, 04:19 AM
Self leveling fillers are running and as far as I know have a maximum thickness they can be poured. Mortar and similar can be installed thicker and isn't as thin as self leveling compounds.
Wait and see what the others have to say - they know more than me about this type of stuff
Wait and see what the others have to say - they know more than me about this type of stuff
#14
07-17-14, 04:21 PM
Group Moderator
Mix up the Ardex feather patch... and fill it up. I'd recommend you do it in 2 applications... fill up the lower portions until it's only maybe 1/2" deep everywhere. Then once that's dry fill in the upper portion.
If you can't find the feather patch another product that would work well would be Quickcrete non shrink precision grout. You probably do NOT want the fast set variety. You can fill the gap completely in one shot with this product... just mix it fairly runny and pour it in.
If you can't find the feather patch another product that would work well would be Quickcrete non shrink precision grout. You probably do NOT want the fast set variety. You can fill the gap completely in one shot with this product... just mix it fairly runny and pour it in.
#16
07-26-14, 01:56 PM
I did the thing - Self Leveling Concrete
Our very kind neighbor gave us a bag of self leveling concrete.
I mixed small amounts at a time in a bucket. All I had was 2 paint stir sticks, so I rubber banded them together and got to mixing.
I mixed small amounts at a time in a bucket. All I had was 2 paint stir sticks, so I rubber banded them together and got to mixing.
