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OK to caulk interior framing around garage doors?

OK to caulk interior framing around garage doors?

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  #1  
Old 05-08-15, 05:35 AM
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OK to caulk interior framing around garage doors?

Hi, all. I am a new member to this forum and this is my first post. I caulked all the gaps on the interior wood framing of our 2-car garage, as I prefer the more finished look. (FYI, used DAP Alex Ultra acrylic latex sealant plus silicone, 230 Grade for windows, doors, trim, siding, and molding.) Perhaps builders don't normally caulk these areas to save time or not necessary, but is it a problem to do so? For example, can water now get trapped? Does the wood need to expand/contract? On a very windy day, I may hear the garage doors rattling a bit, but there was never a draft at the now-caulked locations.

The outside wall is vinyl siding with proper drainage and drip flashing installed. Did I create a potential problem by caulking these interior gaps? Just looking for some peace of mind. Thanks.
 
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  #2  
Old 05-08-15, 05:52 AM
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How about a picture so we can see what you talking about.
 
  #3  
Old 05-08-15, 06:13 AM
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Air sealing a garage asks the question, where are the exhaust fumes from a car or other fuel powered machine that we often start and run in there going to go. There is supposed to be a 100% effective air barrier (rarely 100%) between the garage and the house. Plus a code specific fire rated barrier. With the sealing you have already done, I would suggest you review those two items as well.

Although it seems desirable to keep a garage warm in the winter, it is often necessary to install permanently open venting specifically to handle car exhaust. Even if you don't run your vehicles in there, it is a garage and someone else might. We hear every winter where someone or a family dies from CO because of issues like this.

Bud
 
  #4  
Old 05-08-15, 06:46 AM
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Are you referring to the 2x6 buck that the garage door hardware mounts to? If so, it will probably be ok although the stress put on those 2xs from opening/closing the door could cause the caulking to fail later on.
Pics would be nice - http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...your-post.html

btw - welcome to the forums!
 
  #5  
Old 05-08-15, 06:47 AM
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Thanks, Bud9051. Where would I review these air/fire barrier codes?

Joecaption - Here are a couple of photos, inside and outside. I caulked under the header piece as well as the vertical gaps to the inside of the garage door rails.Name:  DSCF0023.jpg
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  #6  
Old 05-08-15, 06:49 AM
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Is there no plywood backing behind the vinyl siding?
 
  #7  
Old 05-08-15, 07:06 AM
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marksr - I believe there is plywood or OSB behind it. Here are a couple of photos when we had roofing/siding repair done, if that helps.Name:  Sheppard Roofing 1028001027a.JPG
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  #8  
Old 05-08-15, 07:11 AM
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I was looking at the 'arch' at the top edge of the garage door - looked like I was seeing the back of the siding As long as there is plywood/osb behind the siding the vinyl was installed correctly. Bud or one of the others will have to address the air sealing and fire code questions.
 
  #9  
Old 05-08-15, 07:18 AM
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Bit of a novice on terminology. In the photo, I caulked the top (under the header) and right-side of the "triangular brace piece" shown.
 
  #10  
Old 05-08-15, 07:20 AM
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Each building department is under the codes they or their town/state determines should be used, but fire and air barriers are rather universal. A quick search and there is a lot of information out there. This one mentions the fire barrier issue.
Attached Garage Fire Containment - InterNACHI

As for an air barrier, my work with energy efficiency involves air sealing and from experience a wall that hasn't been extensively air sealed will definitely allow fumes from a garage into a house. There is a natural flow of air into the lower portions of every home in a cold climate, up through the house and out some high leaks. Since it is too late (this is an existing home) then you need to do the best you can, regardless of codes, and install CO detectors inside the home. And never run your car for long periods of time inside the garage. If you want to warm it up, back it outside.

Sorry to sound pushy, but it is an important issue. I had a CO detector in my office with a garage bay adjacent to it. We would pull our vehicles in to load and unload equipment. Just pulling in and shutting off the vehicle would often trip that CO detector. It amazed me how much CO could get in that quickly with a wall and the doors closed.

Bud
 
  #11  
Old 05-08-15, 07:24 AM
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Just checked the inside of the triangular section; it's just the back of the vinyl siding. So, installed incorrectly? Been living here 13+ years, no issues...
 
  #12  
Old 05-08-15, 07:28 AM
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Thanks, Bud. I'll check the link to the fire barrier issue. I've never run fuel-powered equipment inside the garage without at least one garage door open.
 
  #13  
Old 05-08-15, 08:49 AM
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checked the inside of the triangular section; it's just the back of the vinyl siding. So, installed incorrectly?
Yep, that's not the correct way to install the vinyl but if that's the only section that was done that way you'll probably be ok. When the vinyl siding is installed directly to the studs it is prone to warp.
 
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