Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 7
PA
05-08-15, 05:35 AM
#1
OK to caulk interior framing around garage doors?
Hi, all. I am a new member to this forum and this is my first post. I caulked all the gaps on the interior wood framing of our 2-car garage, as I prefer the more finished look. (FYI, used DAP Alex Ultra acrylic latex sealant plus silicone, 230 Grade for windows, doors, trim, siding, and molding.) Perhaps builders don't normally caulk these areas to save time or not necessary, but is it a problem to do so? For example, can water now get trapped? Does the wood need to expand/contract? On a very windy day, I may hear the garage doors rattling a bit, but there was never a draft at the now-caulked locations.
The outside wall is vinyl siding with proper drainage and drip flashing installed. Did I create a potential problem by caulking these interior gaps? Just looking for some peace of mind. Thanks.
The outside wall is vinyl siding with proper drainage and drip flashing installed. Did I create a potential problem by caulking these interior gaps? Just looking for some peace of mind. Thanks.
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VA
Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 9,772
ME
05-08-15, 06:13 AM
#3
Air sealing a garage asks the question, where are the exhaust fumes from a car or other fuel powered machine that we often start and run in there going to go. There is supposed to be a 100% effective air barrier (rarely 100%) between the garage and the house. Plus a code specific fire rated barrier. With the sealing you have already done, I would suggest you review those two items as well.
Although it seems desirable to keep a garage warm in the winter, it is often necessary to install permanently open venting specifically to handle car exhaust. Even if you don't run your vehicles in there, it is a garage and someone else might. We hear every winter where someone or a family dies from CO because of issues like this.
Bud
Although it seems desirable to keep a garage warm in the winter, it is often necessary to install permanently open venting specifically to handle car exhaust. Even if you don't run your vehicles in there, it is a garage and someone else might. We hear every winter where someone or a family dies from CO because of issues like this.
Bud
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 42,810
TN
05-08-15, 06:46 AM
#4
Are you referring to the 2x6 buck that the garage door hardware mounts to? If so, it will probably be ok although the stress put on those 2xs from opening/closing the door could cause the caulking to fail later on.
Pics would be nice - http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...your-post.html
btw - welcome to the forums!
Pics would be nice - http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...your-post.html
btw - welcome to the forums!
retired painter/contractor
avid DIYer
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 42,810
TN
05-08-15, 07:11 AM
#8
I was looking at the 'arch' at the top edge of the garage door - looked like I was seeing the back of the siding 
As long as there is plywood/osb behind the siding the vinyl was installed correctly. Bud or one of the others will have to address the air sealing and fire code questions.
As long as there is plywood/osb behind the siding the vinyl was installed correctly. Bud or one of the others will have to address the air sealing and fire code questions.
retired painter/contractor
avid DIYer
Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 9,772
ME
05-08-15, 07:20 AM
#10
Each building department is under the codes they or their town/state determines should be used, but fire and air barriers are rather universal. A quick search and there is a lot of information out there. This one mentions the fire barrier issue.
Attached Garage Fire Containment - InterNACHI
As for an air barrier, my work with energy efficiency involves air sealing and from experience a wall that hasn't been extensively air sealed will definitely allow fumes from a garage into a house. There is a natural flow of air into the lower portions of every home in a cold climate, up through the house and out some high leaks. Since it is too late (this is an existing home) then you need to do the best you can, regardless of codes, and install CO detectors inside the home. And never run your car for long periods of time inside the garage. If you want to warm it up, back it outside.
Sorry to sound pushy, but it is an important issue. I had a CO detector in my office with a garage bay adjacent to it. We would pull our vehicles in to load and unload equipment. Just pulling in and shutting off the vehicle would often trip that CO detector. It amazed me how much CO could get in that quickly with a wall and the doors closed.
Bud
Attached Garage Fire Containment - InterNACHI
As for an air barrier, my work with energy efficiency involves air sealing and from experience a wall that hasn't been extensively air sealed will definitely allow fumes from a garage into a house. There is a natural flow of air into the lower portions of every home in a cold climate, up through the house and out some high leaks. Since it is too late (this is an existing home) then you need to do the best you can, regardless of codes, and install CO detectors inside the home. And never run your car for long periods of time inside the garage. If you want to warm it up, back it outside.
Sorry to sound pushy, but it is an important issue. I had a CO detector in my office with a garage bay adjacent to it. We would pull our vehicles in to load and unload equipment. Just pulling in and shutting off the vehicle would often trip that CO detector. It amazed me how much CO could get in that quickly with a wall and the doors closed.
Bud
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 42,810
TN
05-08-15, 08:49 AM
#13
checked the inside of the triangular section; it's just the back of the vinyl siding. So, installed incorrectly?Yep, that's not the correct way to install the vinyl but if that's the only section that was done that way you'll probably be ok. When the vinyl siding is installed directly to the studs it is prone to warp.
retired painter/contractor
avid DIYer
